Contents
The latest white goods technology to hit the market place is an acid/alkaline water charger. With a price tag between $1000 to $1300 (Aud) for a single commercial unit, its not hard to see why some people may choose to build an experiment with their own home made designs. The following plans will describe in detail how to make an acid/alkaline water charger to experiment with your own charge water at home. The following plans involve simple to understand step by step instructions. The price of the materials to make your own unit should set you back between $50 to $70 (Aud).
What is acid/alkaline water, also known as micro-cluster water? By placing a positive electrode in one partition of the charger container an a negative electrode in the other partition of the container, you can get ordinary tap water to separate into acid water at the positive side, an alkaline water on the negative side. The water actually undergoes a change of its electrical state. It does this by changing the pH level of the water. Negative electrons are attracted to the positive protons on the positive plate side. The negative plate partition of the water charger builds up what is termed as a charge cluster of negative Hydrogen ions in the water. Where as the positive plate partition builds up a charge of OH ions. Commercial units claim negative charge clusters of around -250 to -350 mV. Why is this charge cluster water beneficial to people ? It has been document by commercial manufacturing companies that acid/ alkaline water units can assist in helping many human ailments. Ailments like arthritis, fatty acids, metal build up in the body etc... There are many pages on the internet devoted to other peoples testimonials as to these health benefits. I don't think charge cluster water can do any immediate harm to people in the short term, as naturally falling rain water has a similar build up of negative charge. This type of unit allows people to have a type of rain water on demand, while at the same time allows them to use the acid water for rashes and skin aliments. Acid/Alkaline water can also be used in the garden.
The pH scale ranges from 0 on the acidic end to 14 on the alkaline end. A solution is considered neutral if its pH is 7. At a pH of 7 water contains equal concentrations of H+ and OH- ions. Substances with a pH less than 7 are acidic because they contain a higher concentration of H+ ions. Substances with a pH higher than 7 are alkaline because they contain a higher concentration of OH- than H+. The pH scale is a log scale so a change of one pH unit means a factor of ten in the concentration of hydrogen ions.
The first thing you will need is the following parts :
1 @ Synthetic Car Chamois [Membrane Filter]
1 @ 5mm x 160mm x 460mm PVC Pipe [Cylinder ]
4 @ 10mm x 20mm x 420mm Nylon Strip [Baffle Guides ]
2 @ 5mm x 150 mm x 420mm Acrylic or Nylon Sheet [Baffle Plates]
2 @ 1.5mm x 50mm x 350 Stainless Steel Sheet (316) [Electrodes]
1 @ 20mm x 151mm dia Nylon Block [Bottom End Cap]
2 @ 10mm dia pipe fittings.(optional) [Outlets]
1 @ Small Tube of Silicon Sealant
2 @ 5 mm x 16 mm Stainless Nut/Bolt [Electrode Fixing]
26 @ 16mm x 2.5mm(4g) Screws [Fixing Screws ]
1 @ 1.5mm drill bit
1 @ 5mm drill bit
1 @ 6-10mm drill bit
Cut the baffle plate material to the correct size: 2 @ 5mm x 150 mm x 420mm . Once you have both baffles cut neatly to the same size, you will then have to drill a multiple of 6-10mm holes in a matrix pattern down the two baffles plates.(see figure 3) This is important as this is where the 12v electric positive and negative charge travels through the chamois membrane filter to separate the water into acid/alkaline. Do not drill these holes too near the edge of the baffle guides or near the bottom end cap, as the water will escape around the edges an allow the water to mix in together again. We do not want the water to mix in together at any stage, as we wish for the water to stay separated in both sides of the charger container. It's a good idea to leave a safety margin of at least 30mm around the edge before any holes are drilled. The matrix can be drilled with 5 columns of 18 rows by 8mm holes, that's around 90 holes in all. Make sure you clamp both baffle plates together neatly before drilling, and that you drill both plates identically at the same time. Over lapping or out of alignment holes may not allow uniform charge to go through the water.
Handy hint : on the back of most contact paper or wall paper there is a ruled 20mm x 20mm ink printed grid. Cut to size a piece of this paper to use as a grid. Tape this grid to the baffles before drilling, and then drill the intersections of these lines. You may need to lightly centre punch these intersection points first.
If you have the plastic baffle guides material in one large piece then you will need to cut this block of material into 4 @10mm x 20mm x 420mm plastic strips (see figure 3.)Use a power or hand saw to get the straightest and cleanest cut you can. You will need you use a power or hand plane to shave one edge/corner off the entire length of these baffle guides so that the guides sit flush with the main cylinder/container wall, while also sitting flush with the baffle plate. (see figure 6). To do this simply place the baffle guides along the edge of the baffle plate material and clamp in between two planks of wood in a vice or similar. Using scrap piece of the 160mm PVC at approximately 10mm wide, cut this scrap piece in half across the diameter. You will be using this as a template as you plane down the curve along the full length of the baffle guide edges. (see figure 2). Plane a little off the edge each time while placing the scrap template on the cut edge to see if you have the curve correct. Do not remove to much off the edges else your baffle guide will leak water around the edge, as it won't clamp the baffle plates tight inside the finished unit. Repeat the above with all four baffle guides. You will have to alternate from side to side for the correct plane angle. Try not to loose count of each plane cut with each side.
 Figure 2 |
 Figure 3 |
Cut out the synthetic chamois to a slightly smaller size than that of your baffle plates. Place the chamois on a clean firm surface, then place one of the baffle plates on top of the chamois. While placing your weight on the baffle plate and chamois, mark a pencil mark around the chamois while using the edge of the baffle plate as a ruler or guide. Using a pair of scissors cut the inside line of the pencil mark on the chamois. We want the chamois (membrane filter) to be slightly smaller in size than the baffle plates, as this prevents the chamois from jamming in/around the baffle guides and causing leaks. This scissor cut is not critical as you should still have a safety margin of around 30mm that covers over the actual baffle plate matrix of holes. You could still come in 5mm from your original pencil mark and be quite safe with final cut. Do not make any holes in this membrane filter as the water charger will not work properly. If your membrane filter gets old or damaged, then replace the material as soon as possible. When the chamois is first new you should hand wash your chamois membrane filter in warm soapy water and then rinse it out in clean water and allow it to dry. The purpose of this is to remove any latent manufacturing chemical contaminates in the chamois.
Cut two stainless steel strips to the size 1.5mm x 50mm x 350 mm long. These are your positive and negative electrodes. These are bolted inside near the top edge of the main cylinder/container on opposite sides to each other. One electrode either side of the baffle partition will produce acid water at the positive, while alkaline water is produce at the negative. The baffle partition and membrane filter will prevent the water from mixing together. These electrodes can be powered by a standard 12 volt car battery charger. You do not need heavy current. An ordinary house hold 240volt down to 6-12 volt handy power pack will work just the same.
Drill a hole at one end in the centre of these stainless steel plates about 15mm down from the top width edge, an about 25 mm in from the length edge. This is the bolt hole that will fix the electrodes to the main cylinder/container. (See figure 4 & 5 )
 Figure 4 |
 Figure 5 |
Here comes the tricky part. The bottom end cap is lathed out of a 20mm thick x 160mm square block of nylon or acrylic material. The end cap will be lathed to an accurate finish of 151mm inside diameter. You may have to get this bottom end cap manufactured at a machine shop. It should cost you very little to have it done. This end cap will fit entirely flush into the bottom of the cylinder/container. If you wish you may lathe a 5 mm x 2mm deep groove in the centre of the outer edge to contain a silicon bead of glue when fixing the cap into position. You will need to use a saw or router to cut an 11mm x 10mm deep groove across the end cap diameter inside face. In this groove is where the baffles will sit to seal the bottom section of the baffle plates to prevent them from leakage.(see figure 7) It is important to try an get this groove cut out section as straight an as dead centre as is possible. You may like to get this groove machined at the machine shop at the same time that you have the diameter lathed out. It is much easier to get this groove placed centre while it is still a square block of material. Alternatively you may attempt to lathe the block yourself by drilling a 10mm hole in the dead centre of the square block, and place a nut and bolt through the material. Place the bolt end in a drill machine an lathe the151mm dia block with a sharp chisel or screw driver. Be sure to fix the drill machine firmly in a vice or similar before you start. Be careful of the drill speed, as the rotational speed can get very large at the outer edge of the square block. If you attempt to lathe this yourself then make sure you cut the corners off the block before you start. You will have to plug the10mm drill hole with a plastic plug and silicon once you have finished lathing. Have fun...
Do NOT fix the end cap permanently into the cylinder/container at this stage.
Figure 6 & Figure 7.
With all the materials cut, drilled and machined to the above specifications, you should be ready to assemble all the parts into their correct position. Do not fix the bottom end cap at this time. We need to be able to work from both the top and bottom end of the cylinder while we place the baffle guides into position.(see figure 8) We will be putting the end cap into position and removing it numerous times as we finish the final assembly.
Firstly, put the bottom end cap into position do not fix it. Assert that the end cap is flush with the bottom of the cylinder/container. Sit the cylinder/container in the normal up right position on the bench top.
Place the now cut to size chamois between the two baffle plates. Slide the baffle plates with the chamois down into the container while positioning the baffle plates firmly into the router groove in the bottom of the end cap. Tap the baffle plates with your hand to make sure that they are firmly into the groove of the end cap. If the plates appear tight, then file the outer bottom edge of the baffle plates to a taper so they slide in easier. You may now cut two or four planks of thin wood 71mm wide by 200-400 mm long. Jam these pieces of wood either side of the baffle plates to hold the entire plates straight and centre most in the cylinder/container as we fix the baffle guides.
Put two of the 10mm x 20mm x 420mm long baffle guides into the container: one either side of the baffle plates. Using your hand as a clamp hold them firmly an assert that the guides are to the outer most diameter hard against the inside of the cylinder curve. Be sure that the planed curve on the guide is the correct way out. Using a 1.5mm drill bit as a pilot hole drill outside the cylinder an in to the baffle guide. Estimate the drill hole at the centre position at around the general top of these two guides: about 30mm down. The top of baffle guides should rest natural about 20mm down from the top of the cylinder/container. So you will need to drill down about 25-30mm so you don't miss the top of the baffle guide. Screw a 2.5mm(4g) x 16mm screw into the hole fixing the top end of these first two baffle guides. (see figure 8)
Now using a long stick of wood remove the bottom end cap away from the cylinder. Leave the baffles in position. Once again holding the bottom end of baffle guides against the baffles and hard against the outer cylinder, drill a pilot hole in the outer cylinder through to the centre of baffle guides; fix a screw to hold them into position. These two holes should be up 25-30 mm from the bottom of the cylinder/container so you don't miss the end of the baffle guides. Place the bottom end cap back into position. Again check that the baffle plates are hard down into the end cap groove, and that the end cap is flush with the cylinder/container bottom. Using a pencil and a ruler, rule two parallel lines from top to bottom along the outer side of the cylinder in the dead centre of the 4 screw heads. Asserting that the baffle guides are straight, an are in position, drill two pilot holes at the dead centre of the cylinder right on the two pencil lines. Insert two more screws into these holes. Measure an divide either side of these centre screws to find the middle of the top an current centre, and the middle of the bottom and current centre. Drill pilot holes and screw these last four screws into position. You should have 2 lines of 5 screws holding each of the two baffle guides into position. (see figure 8) Repeat step 4 above until all baffle guides are fixed into position.
Once you have all baffle guides fixed into position use a marker pen or texture to number the baffle guides with a corresponding number on the cylinder wall. Now undo all the screws and remove the baffle guides (one at a time only) away from the cylinder/container. We are now going to place a thin layer of silicon sealant on the fixing side of all four guides and refit them back into their original position inside the cylinder/container. Note the number for the correct way around when refitting the guides.
Once all the baffle guides are sealed with silicon and fixed into position, you may remove the bottom end cap and place a bead of silicon around the outer parameter of the end cap. Being careful, fit the end cap back into the cylinder container. Be sure that the end cap is home flush and that the baffle plates once again align with the groove in the end cap. Hit the baffle plates down firmly to check they are firmly into the groove of the end cap. If all is home and flush, looking inside from the top down toward the bottom, scribe a pencil mark either side on the outer cylinder at the very bottom of the cylinder where the end cap groove is. We do not wish to screw into the baffle plates when we fix the bottom end cap, so take note of the pencil mark you have just made. Starting about 45mm away from the pencil marks and 10mm up from the bottom edge of the cylinder/container, drill and place 6 x 2.5mm (4g) screws around the bottom of cylinder and through into the end cap, firmly fixing the end cap into position.
Before any silicon is allowed to dry firm, remove the baffle plates from their position. Wipe any excess silicon away from the end cap, plates and the baffle guides. Allow your unit to dry for 24 hours before you use your completed unit. Fill the cylinder/container with water and check that there is no leaks and that every thing looks clean an is in the correct position.
You may have to hammer the top of both electrode plates to fit the inside curved of the cylinder. Hammer the first 50mm of the top section of each electrode plate so that it shapes into a curve. You should not need to curve any more than 50mm. If you desire you may also bend a 90 deg x 90 deg bend near the top of electrode plates to move the electrodes closer into the centre of the container. The top of the plates should be flush with the top of the cylinder/container. Drill and fit both the electrode stainless steel plates into position. Fit the electrode plates with 2 @ 5mm x 16mm stainless steel nuts and bolts. (see figure 4&5)
Optionally you may drill two10mm holes at the bottom (just above the end cap) either side of the container and place two hose fittings to allow you to drain the charge water from the container. You may also use some sort of tap arrangement. I leave that up to you. Your assembled unit should look something like the grey colour picture design of figure 9.
Figure 8 |
 Figure 9 |
Ok, if your charger container is sealed and there are no apparent leaks, then you are ready to fit the baffles; refill it with clean water and connect the power. Place the chamois between the baffles plates and slide the plates firmly into the baffle guides while also checking that the baffles have gone down firmly into the groove in the end cap.
Fill your charger unit full with clean drinking water while alternating to both sides of the container at the same time. Fill the container till the water level is about 5mm below the top of the baffle plates.You will notice as you fill one side that you have slight leaking into the adjacent partition, this is quite okay. The water will not leak through under normal use, provided that you keep the water height at roughly the same water level on both sides. When first filling the container the pressure difference of the water is causing water to push through the chamois membrane, this is quite normal. This water pressure difference should be avoid where possible, as it's not desirable when you decide to empty the container of the charged water.When you empty the charger you must syphon off both sides of the container at exactly the same time. This will prevent the water pressure difference and prevent water flowing from one partition of the container into the other.
Using a texture or marker pen scribe a (+) symbol on one of the electrodes, an a (-) negative symbol on the other electrode. Place the red lead of your battery charger onto the (+) electrode. Place the black lead onto the (-) negative electrode. You will need to identify the polarity of the water by determining which side of the container is which. This is in case you decide to do some periodic testing during the charging process, therefore you will need to identify which end to reconnect the battery charger leads.
The first time you use your water charger you will need to leave it connected to the power supply for about 1-3 hours; depending the water in your area. The first thing you may notice might be the water in the positive side of the container starting to turn a dark greenie brown colour, while the water in the negative side will remain clean and clear. If your charger is working correctly you should see the above results start to happen with in about 1 hour. If you don't see something happen with in the hour then check that the battery charger leads are making contact with the stainless steel plates in the container, or that the power supply is working as it should. I have left my own water charger unit on for up to 10-12 hours at a time. You will determine through trial an error how long you should leave your water charger unit connect to the power supply. You may like to keep a log book of your experiments.
As stated previously: when removing the charged water from your charger unit, you must drain both sides of the unit at the same time. It is advisable that you empty the unit as soon as you disconnect the power supply. This ensures the charged water cannot redistribute its charge back into either partition. You will need two clean 4 litre containers to contain the water when emptying the unit. The unit when full should hold around 6.9 litres when filled to the top water mark. Use a texture or marker pen to identify the acid an alkaline water in both of the 4 litre storage containers. The alkaline water should be clean, clear and taste something like rain water. The acid water will be coloured a dark greenie brown and taste brackish or stark like metal in the water. You may drink the alkaline water internally for inner health, an use the acid water externally on your skin and hair for outer health. By personal preference I like to store the alkaline charge water in a glass bottle.
Companies with commercial units recommend for the first time user to only charge the water for a short period, so that your body can slowly adjust to the cleansing an detoxifying effects. As you grow accustom to the alkaline water you can leave the power connected to the water charger for longer periods for stronger effects.
The above information is offered freely to all, for in the hope of a cleaner better world... Should you feel obligated an in someway feel the need to contribute something to help in this cause, then please feel free to make suggestions, donations or contributions of any sort you wish, so that I may continue to provide further information for the betterment of all.....
Please share all your findings with others, don't let ego and greed cloud your better judgement...
Enjoy your water.....
G.D.Mutch
email :
pagemaster@rocknet.net.au
 Model No. 2. |
Manufactured Units If you are able to make one of these unit for yourself then I can possibly make a unit for you. All units will be worked out on a per quoted price basis. The user must accept all responsibility when using these unit. Owing to different water in all parts of the world, I therefore cannot guarantee the fitness of the water when used in these experimental water charging units. Although every effort will be made to ensure food grade quality materials will be used in all manufacturing stages. |
For further charge water inquires please send an email to :
G.D.Mutch
Rockhampton, Qld, Australia.
email :
pagemaster@rocknet.net.au
