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I have recieved this additional information about the joe cell
The information is as follows
Ian Hacon the guy who sells the Joe cell phenomena book and video has sent me this additional info on the joe cell device.
Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 23:47:27 +1000
Dear folk
Ian Hacon of Nutech 2000 is releasing this vital information on the Joe cell. A researcher has published a new book based on his research and practical experience.
see full text from this book as of November 11 1999If you get the book you will see a good collection of photographs too numerous to put at this website describing in better detail than the text alone..
Alex has 4 cars running on Joe cells and has made a marvellous contribution in making this technology understandable and has developed the methodology etc.
This is Breakthrough information, so I hope you will all make good use of it for the betterment of mankind. The book will contain photographs of each stage of the cell coming to life and full and detailed procedures.
We know some have found this project frustrating, while many have had success to some degree. Either running totally or doubling mileage. We wish you every success.
Ian of Nutech
Chapter 1.
" Since corrupt people unite amognst themselves to constitute a force,then honest people must do the same"
Count Leo N.Tolstoy.
Introduction.
Intention.
My intention, ( to the best of my ability ), is to remove some of the mystery, secrets, guesswork and plain mis-information that surrounds the construction of the " cell ". The aim is to help the constructor make a cell in a laid out step by step method that I employ to make my own cells. My knowledge comes from making the cells. As I have built many working cells, this experience has given me the knowledge, not by guesswork or reading someone's book or listening to second or third hand " expert " opinions. I now pass this information on to you. And it will always stay as my opinion and information, until you build your own cell. Only then will you know how to make a cell and not before!
Joe
In approximately 1992 a new form of a generator was constructed in Australia. In preparation for this book, I spoke to both the designer and his fiancee, regarding my wish to give him the due credits etc., for his 7 years of work and cooperation with all involved parties. Unfortunately due to the lunatic fringe and money grabbers that dealt with him, this poor, victimised individual has decided to relinquish any further involvement with the cell that bears his name. So in respect to his wishes, he will simply be referred to as Joe.
I would simply like to say dear Joe, that if it was not for rare individuals like you, we the vast brain washed majority would never find the true beauties of mother natures gifts.
It is now probably to late to save mother earth from the years of pollution and desecration caused by the thoughtless money grabbing multi nationals. As a species we are unique. Even a little simple bird keeps its nest clean, yet we the most intelligent of creation destroy our only home! Yet, individuals like Joe show us that there is a better way, a simple pure way, natures way. Without the benefit? of years of dogmatic mind shrinking education, Joe found by intuition how to ask nature a question in such a way that it answered. The answer was a method of powering machinery without the use of our primary resources or the creation of pollution. This method is well known to the select few and the technology has been around for centuries. Joe has made a crude version of this generator. The generator is called a Joe cell.
What is a Joe cell?
find out, let us look at some of the characteristics of the cell as stated by Joe.
* The water in the cell is not consumed.
* The cell runs cold to the touch.
* It takes a period of time before the engine will run from the cell. It then has an erratic power output and works in an intermittent fashion.
* When the cell is removed from the car, the engine takes an appreciable time to return to " normal " and run from the original fuel.
* If the cell is left in the car for a long period, the engine becomes " charged ". From this point, the cell is not required for the motor to run.
* All spark plug leads can be removed and the engine will still run as long as the ignition coil and distributor remain functional.
* The output of the cell, does not have to be connected to the internals of the engine, a close external coupling will do.
* The cell requires the " charging " of the water to work.
* The " charged " water can be poured from one container to another without losing the " charge ".
* The cell requires a specific style of construction, little understood by most constructors.
* An empirical construction style has evolved with little, if any science or success.
* The source of power for the cell and its use has great value for some individuals. These
* individuals are creating mis-information, cloaking operations and fear to the cell constructors.
* Human presence can affect the operation of the cell in a positive or negative way.
There is much more information on the Joe cell that is available to the privileged few, but we have enough information from the above clues to identify the energy type. From the above it is plain to see that, without a shadow of a doubt in my mind, the Joe cell is a crude Orgone accumulator, and that the cell runs on, or collects Orgone. There is a 100% correlation with Orgone energy and its properties. As these accumulators have been and are in use all over the world, the constructor can share in this vast pool of knowledge. He can bypass the myths, mis-information and the mongers of secrets and get on with scientifically based facts. Also he can be prepared to realise and meet the DANGERS that await the rash and fool hardy.
Chapter 2. ORGONE.
As all known effects of Orgone are seen in the functioning of a Joe cell, it is reasonable to assume that the reader should have a good working knowledge of Orgone energy. Additionally, as the cell obeys all known Orgone laws and as the cells operation does not contradict even one Orgone effect, it is safe to assume that this is the energy that is utilised in the cell.
In honour of, and respect to one of the worlds' great scientists, namely Wilhelm Reich, I will continue to use the name Orgone as used by Reich. A multitude of other scientists great and small have given it a name. In a following chapter I have listed at least 80 names by various individuals that is the same or similar force.
Orgone energy is the live cosmic energy of nature. To quote Reich ,.....The Cosmic OR Energy fills the universe.....and.....it is a spontaneously pulsating, mass-free energy......
For interested readers, there is a huge collection of facts, opinions and absolute rubbish on the Internet regarding Reich and Orgone. As the aim of this book is to focus on the Joe cell, the above definition will suffice.
Some properties of Orgone energy
Thousands of properties have been observed for the life force and I would like to list and explain the main ones relating to the cell.
1. It is mass free. ie. Orgone energy has no inertia or weight etc. So conventional test equipment that requires a reaction or something to " push " against to measure a force will be ineffective.
2. It is present everywhere. But, more importantly to the Joe cell user, the concentration is variable from place to place and from time to time. Therefore if the cell is leaky and located in a low concentration area, it may stop breeding or even loose the seed. The external signs are a motor that will not produce full power or will not run at all.
3. It in constant motion. It has an uneven movement from West to East at a speed considerably greater than the earths rotation. The motion is a pulsating expansion and contraction and a flow normally along a curved path. Inside an accumulator, the energy is emitted as a spinning wave. Both of these can be seen to varying degrees in a charging vat and or cell. These signs are very important to the experimenter as they are his tools in the different stages of seeding and breeding of the cell.
4. It negates the laws of entropy. Orgone energy flows from lower concentrations to higher concentrations ie. Orgone attracts concentrations to itself. This is the normal process of creation and as such is a proof of Orgone being a living energy. For the experimenter this is very important especially in the seeding stage. If the cell is located in an unfavourable location, it may not seed or take a long time to seed. I have had cells taking 4 weeks to seed, others take only a few days.
5. Matter is created from it. Under appropriate conditions, which are not rare or unusual, I have had different minerals formed from identical cells. This in my case is usually a white or green powder that forms as very fine colloid that eventually sinks to the bottom of the cell. You definitely do not want this to occur in the Joe cell as the cell will not run the car and the only solution is to completely dismantle, repolish and clean all components. For the sceptical you may assume that the deposits are coming out of the water. I strongly disagree.
6. It can be manipulated and controlled. We do this in the cell by forming alternate organic and non organic " cylinders " to form an accumulator for the Orgone. Thus the organic layers attract and soak up the Orgone and the metallic layers draw it from the organic material and radiate it into the interior of the accumulator. Additionally we use electricity, magnetism and electrolysis to assist with the breeding process.
7. It comes from the sun in vast quantities. As such, allowing for thermal lag, the Orgone density peaks in the afternoon and diminishes in the early morning hours. As people have found, a leaky cell will not function or " die " around 3 am to 4 am.
8. It is affected by weather, ie. humidity, cloud, temperature and time of day affects the accumulation of Orgone. For the experimenter with a leaky cell this explains the weird behaviour of leaky cells ie. sometimes they work other times not, but if you stand on one foot, talk to it, try different water, chemistry, more or less power etc. it will " come good ". This has created a whole religion of what you must do or not do, to such an extent that with the blind leading the blind, the cell in the hands of a casual constructor is doomed to failure.
9A. It moves in the direction of a magnetic field. This is highly significant to the cell builder. This factor controls the position and polarity of the cell's internal wiring as well as controlling how much residual magnetism the steel can have and still allow the cell to work. This is critical in the choice and cutting operations of the related metals, Again a whole mythology has developed around this area . From reading previous material on the subject, it seems that the steel has to be cut by vestal virgins in the Black Forest on a moonlit night!
9B. It moves at right angle to an electrical field. Again highly important as it dictates polarity and wiring connection to the cell.
10. It is absorbed by water. This is why we use water in the cell. Of course the water has to be the right type of water. By the way, for example, we could have used bees wax, but as we want to encourage the breeding process with all the tricks in the book, the bees wax would have prevented the use of electrolysis.
11. It is polarised. As Orgone is polarised we can build a positive or negative cell. But, if you mix your positive and negative construction materials as most people do, then your result is a leaky or non operational cell.
12. It will penetrate or travel along all known materials. All bodies of continuous structure are equally good conductors eg. It may travel through 70 feet or more of metal. As such do not think that you are trapping it in the cell. The only reason it stays in the cell at all is because it wants to. It is up to the experimenter to set up a seeding and breeding environment that is conducive to Orgone and not try to create an imaginary prison.
13. It has a slow conduction rate. Orgone will take 20 seconds or more to traverse 50 yards of wire. For the experimenter this means that you should wait about 30 seconds on turning power on to the cell before you can expect to observe Orgone induction.
14. It exhibits a constant upward tendency, raising vertically. Highly important in creating a non leaky cell installation in an car.
15. It cannot remain in steel or water longer than about 1 hour. Simply said, if you cell is not breeding, it will die in about 1 hour. This explains the use of a 1.5 volt battery across leaky cells to maintain a breeding process.
16. It radiates a great distance. From a typical cell the radiation circumference is at least 160 feet. Think about it!
17. It follows optical laws. It can be refracted by a prism etc. This explains the reason for the mirrored or highly polished surfaces in some parts of the cell. It also allows us to control some leaking by utilising optical laws.
18. It surrounds itself with alternating spherical zones of opposite polarity. This is utilised by us to determine cylinder diameters and consequential spacing in the optimisation of the cell.
19. It is affected by living beings. Again important as the experimenter and his attitude can interact with the cell
20. It can only be concentrated to a finite amount. If a cell is charged to its maximum degree so that it can hold no more, it will transform itself into electricity and in this way or form find a discharge. By the visual observation of the bubbles and surface tension of the water, we utilise this fact to our advantage.
Chapter 3.
Comparative names for the life force
At no stage do I even remotely hint that the following terms are identical. The purpose of the list is to show the many names given to unexplainable forces of which Orgone is one.
Manna of the Polynesians. Nervous Ether. Richardson.
elan-vital. Henri Bergson. X-Force. L. E. Eeman
vis medicatrix. Hippocretes. Bio-cosmic energy. Dr. Oscar Brunler.
vis naturalis. Orgone Energy. Dr. Wilhelm Reich.
mumia. Paracelsus. Prana. Hindus.
Vital Fluid. Alchemists. Akasa. Hindus.
Animal magnetism. Mesmer Brahma. Hindus.
Magnetic Fluid. Mesmer. Manna. Israelites.
Odic Force. Baron Karl Von Reichenbach. Virtue. Jesus.
Ka. Egyptians. hike. Egyptians.
Universal life force. Baron Eugene Ferson. Life Force. Dr. Aubrey T. Westlake.
Cosmo-electric energy George Starr. Reiki. Japanese.
Ethertricity. Gaston Burridge. telesma. Hermes Trismegistus.
Pneuma. Gallien. Astral light. Kabbalists.
Spiritus. Fludd. Eckankar.
baraka. Sufis. mungo. African.
entelechy. Dreisch. Ch'i. Chinese.
Bioplasma. Russians. Arealoha. Francis Nixon.
Psychotronic energy. Czechs. Biotronic. Czechs.
Kirlian effect. kerei. Indonesians.
tondi. Sumatra. Eloptic energy. T. Galen Hieronymus.
Ether. Aristotle. tinh. Annamites of Vietnam.
elima. Nkundu. dynamis. Ancient Greeks.
Numen. Romans. El. Hebrews.
Fermi Energy. Orenda. Iroquoi.
Manitou. Algonquian. Wakan. Sioux.
Wakonda. Omaha. Maxpe. Crow.
Digin. Navaho. Dige. Apache.
Hullo. Chickasaw. Neutrino sea. P. A. A. Dirac.
Fluroplasmic energy. B. Hilton. Biodynamic Ether. Rudolf Steiner.
Eloptic radiation. Hieronymus. Logoital plasma. Hieronymus.
neutral force. Kabbala. Negative entropic energy. James DeMayo.
Scalar energy. Tachyon energy.
Vril. Latent neutral. Keely.
Neutricity. Gallimore. Pure non manifest energy. Todd R. Knudtson.
G-field. Sir Oliver Lodge. Space energy.
Cosmic energy.
Chapter 4.
Orgone polarity.
As Orgone is polarised, either positive or negative, Orgone can be manifested sometimes as both polarities for a short period of time.
In our search for the perfect Joe cell, it is essential to utilise polarity conducive materials in the construction of the cell. With the use of suspect materials that encourages the creation or retention of both polarities, the cell is not only a poor breeder ,but also leaky.
I would strongly encourage the experimenter to choose to construct either a negative or positive cell and not to use materials at random or what happens to be handy or cheap. This is a sure way to failure.
Positive Negative
Negative electricity Positive electricity
Iron Selenium
Copper Sulphur
Tin Iodine
Lead Palladium
Brass Cobalt
German silver Phosphorus
Alkalies Tellurium
Alkaloids Charcoal
Argentinium silver Evaporation
Mercury Steaming
The base, ( non pointy end ), of crystals Dstillation
Friction Sound
Magnetic South Vibration
Left hand Right hand
Running water Tip of crystal
Bismuth Magnetic North
Zinc Acids
Osmium Decomposition
Titanium Oxides
Potassium Haccoid salts
Calcined lime Chemical reaction
As seen from the above short list, chemical reaction, in our case electrolysis, evaporation, steaming, vibration, sound and acids are the most common goings on in the cell and in the car. To rephrase, since the natural events in our cells habitat favour the acid cell, I would suggest that the experimenter builds an acid cell until he gains the knowledge of the causes of the cell behaviour.
I personally only build acid cells. I have a dislike of the corrosion associated with alkaline cells and also find that the water remains crystal clear and the insulators do not fail in my acid cells.
Chapter 7.
" Nature is the embodiment of the simplest conceivable mathematics. "
Albert Einstein.
Seed Diameter/Height Ratio
To calculate the height of the cylinders for maximum efficiency, proceed as follows:
1. As covered in greater detail in the chapter on " Charging the water ", make sure that you have your chosen test current flowing through the cell. I normally adjust my electrolyte to obtain a repeatable current flow of 1 Ampere with 12 Volts across the cell.
2. Place a known voltage across the innermost cylinder and the outermost cylinder. For car use, I suggest 12 volts from a car battery or equivalent. The negative goes to the inside bottom of the innermost cylinder, ( normally 1" diameter ), and the positive goes to the outside top of the outermost cylinder, ( normally 4" or 5" diameter ). Measure this voltage accurately!
3. Now leave one lead of the volt meter on the inner cylinder and with the other lead, find the half voltage point diagonally from the inner cylinder to a point in the water. Do your best to memorise this point. Now place one lead of the meter on the outer cylinder and with the other lead, find the half voltage point diagonally towards the inner cylinder. Note this point it will be close to the first measured point, but not necessarily the same point ! If there is a difference halve the difference and record.
4. Measure diametrically the distance from the center of the innermost cylinder to the half voltage point as measured plus the difference if any . Double this measurement! This is the diameter of the " seed " circumference. For example on a 4,3,2,1 cylinder cell the total diameter was 2.24" and for a 5,4,3,2,1 cylinder cell the total distance was 2.83"
5. By using the natural log of the height of the cylinder, we can interpolate and work out our optimum cylinder heights. I have worked out some standard size values for you. You can easily work out your value from the following table.
Height Seed Height Seed
( cyl. ) ( dia. ) ( cyl. ) ( dia. )
6" 1.79" 13" 2.56"
6.5" 1.87" 13.5" 2.60"
7" 1.95" 14" 2.64"
7.5" 2.01" 14.5" 2.67"
8" 2.08" 15" 2.71"
8.5" 2.14" 15.5" 2.74"
9" 2.20" 16" 2.77"
9.5" 2.25" 16.5" 2.80"
10" 2.30" 17" 2.83"
10.5" 2.35" 17.5" 2.86"
11" 2.40" 18" 2.89"
11.5" 2.44" 18.5" 2.92"
12" 2.48" 19" 2.94"
12.5" 2.53" 19.5" 2.97"
21" 3.00"
6
So in 4. above we would use inner cylinder of about 9.4" for the 4 cylinder cell and we would use 17" for the 5 cylinder cell. If this height is too long for you can use the next sub multiple for the longer cylinders ie. 8.5" for the 17" cylinder etc. There is a corresponding loss in " breeding " output, but as long as your cell is not too leaky and you are not travelling in a strip of low level Orgone you should get away with it.
7. At no stage should you use inner cylinders of a length of less than 7" of cylinder height for the most common cubic capacity car engines. Of course for test cells and lawn mowers etc. you will be able to get away with lower surface area cylinders.
Chapter 12.
Do not over analyse or over experiment.
This will destroy the experiment and it's creative Orgonomic force.
Dr. Wilhelm Reich
When things go wrong.
well, my dear reader, you are reading this section for alternative reasons, some are;
A. You always read a book or notes from cover to cover beefer you start a construction project. Great, good idea, read on.
B. You are an armchair scientist and you are reading this information to see how it fits in with your own pet opinions on the subject. Good luck and I hope if you find something to contribute, you will do so freely and in brotherly love.
C. You are reading this chapter because you have made a cell by other methods and are looking for a quick fix. I would strongly recommend that you read and absorb all the previous chapters, as you may have a borderline cell and it may be better to construct a new cell.
D. You are here because you have followed exactly, all my suggestions, and you car will not run on the cell.
n the above, I am only interested in reader D.
Approach to the problem
All problems irrespective of complexity can be solved. in a methodical rational fashion If it looks insurmountable, break it down into convenient smaller section's that you can cope with. Have this smaller section cover one topic only. Make sure that you have a working knowledge of the topic. Take your time , and have somebody else to talk with regarding your chosen solution and approach.
It is important that you change one variable at a time only! If you change variables in a haphazard method or without recording you observations, at the end of the day, you will be worse of than when you started. I would suggest that you break up your problem into the following topics.
Fault finding topics
1. The water.
1a. Cell maintenance.
2. The cell construction.
3. The charging operation.
4. Cell to car interface.
5. Car modifications.
6. Geographic location.
7. Y factor.
1. The water
The single most common problem that you will encounter is the water. As Joe remarked on many times, the " water goes bad ". Not a scientific explanation but well said.
So, what are some of the problems with the water?
A. Is the water dead or polluted right from the start? If you collected, transported and stored the water personally, you should know its history. Re read Chapter 8. If you still doubt your water try the following. Orgone accumulates in water and as such, when you transfer the water out of the cell, you take the charge with it. Therefore, if you, or an acquaintance has a good, ie. stage 3 cell, the water can now be substituted into the suspect cell. On now powering up the suspect cell, within 1 minute you cell should be at stage 3. If the suspect cell does not come up to stage 3, the water is not at fault! The above is by far the easiest way to test a suspect cell, unfortunately you will need another cell or external help.
Note. Do not leave the charged water outside its cell for longer than 1 hour as it is not breeding.
B. Has the pH of your water changed? Simply run your pH test on the cell water. The reading should be the same. If not either the cylinders or the insulators are breaking down and reacting with the water and electrolyte. Make sure that you followed charging, insulator and cylinder material type recommendations.
C. Is the water clear? As in B., the cylinders or insulators are breaking down. Or the cell has gone into a base matter creation mode. As this topic is highly controversial and not pertinent to this subject, your only option is to completely dismantle, polish and clean the cell and or replace the insulators. Fill with fresh juvenile water. Go through charge stages as per Chapter 9.
D. Is there any residue in the sump? As in B. and C. above.
E. Are the stage 3 breeding indicators behaving the same? Read chapter 9 and make sure that the behaviour of the bubbles and meniscus are the same, especially the long term bubble retention. Again if all else fails try the voltage check.
F. Have you changed locations and the cell is now sitting in a low density Orgone strip? Make sure that the cell is at stage 3. Read Chapter 9.
G. Have you accidentally shorted out the cell or reversed polarity to it? See if it goes back to stage 3 if you apply power to it for 1 minute. If not dismantle, polish and clean all components. Fill with fresh juvenile water. Go through charge stages in Chapter 9..
H. Have you allowed the seed to die? Read Chapter 9. Go through stage 1, stage 2 and stage 3 process. The cell may go to stage 2 or even stage 3 within 3 minutes.
I. Has the cell fallen over at any stage? Try 1 minute charge and see if the cell goes to stage 3. If not, dismantle, polish and clean all components. Fill with fresh juvenile water. Go through charge stages in Chapter 9.
1a. Cell maintenance.
I have found after a cell has been in operation for about 6 months, although there is no external indications of malfunction, ie. the cell is happily breeding, it is a good idea to do the equivalent of an oil change and grease. You may find one or more of the following;
* There is a light deposit on the cylinders particularly the outside of the 1 inch and 2 inch.
* The cylinders may have sagged from the vibration, ie. they are not flat on the top horizontal alignment..
* If rubber insulators are used, you will find that the have developed a set.
* Some of the insulators particularly the inner top ones may have a light white or grey deposit on them.
* There may be a slight suspension or colloid towards the bottom of the cell.
* There may be slight indications of a brown sediment on top of the water.
* The cell metal parts may have become magnetised.
* The lower insulators for the bolt may have shrunk and could be weeping.
* The electrical connections to the cell may be loose or corroded.
* The compression fitting for the aluminium pipe may be loose.
* The short piece of rubber or neoprene hose to the blanking plug may have aged.
The cure for the above are self explanatory. The only difficult one is if the cell has become magnetised. You may be able to degauss the cell or at worst you may have to have the offending cylinder replaced or heat treated. When you demagnetise your cell find a better location for it, or it will only happen again!
I do a regular 6 month service on my cells. The steps I perform are as follows; I pour out the charged water into a 5 litre glass container and put it in a cool dark area. Obviously the glass cylinder is clean and only used for you Joe cell work! Remember you have approximately 1 hour to replace the charged water back into a seeding and breeding cell. I next dismantle the cell and clean all surfaces with mild acetic acid. I find that it is not necessary to repolish the cylinders, but you may do so if it makes you feel better. I rotate any rubber insulators 180 degrees so as to use a fresh surface with no set. I lubricate my bolt and associated insulators with Vaseline and reassemble the cell. By this time the charged water has been sitting for about 1/2 hour in the glass cylinder and the majority of the sediment has settled to the bottom of the glass container. I now pour the charged water back into the cell using a paper coffee filter to catch any sediment. I stop pouring the charged water into the cell, when the first drops of water with the sediments starts to leave the glass container. This water I discard or have analysed to amuse myself. I now top up the cell with fresh juvenile water and connect the cell to the power supply. Within seconds you will see a fine white cloud develop on top of the water. This is the residue of the acetic acid that you used to clean the cell with. I remove this simply by wiping the top of the water surface with a paper towel. Within 1 minute your cell will be back at stage 3. That's it, you have just completed you 6 month service.
Note. I will repeat again in case you have forgotten, but all water, containers, funnel etc. must have only juvenile water used in the cleaning or transferring of water for the cell maintenance. It requires a very small quantity of tap water that has been " enhanced " by good old mankind to kill the cell. Don't blame me if you have to start at stage 1 again by being lazy.
2. The cell construction
Needless to say, you should have followed the cell construction Chapters to the letter. If you did not, you obviously know how to make a different type of cell, and these notes will not be 100% relevant, or you have chosen to be creative, frugal, haphazard, or slap happy at the wrong time. I repeat, you are not making a toaster! You are trying to induce the life force to work for you. You cannot capture the life force as in a cage. It will enter and exit as it sees fit. It can penetrate all materials!
If the cell was working at stage 3 and now will not work.
A1. A common problem is that the cell cylinders have moved due to rough handling, vibration, or the wrong diameter insulators. The fix is a dismantle and re alignment. Make sure that you hands are clean!
A2. Another common problem is the covering of the cylinders and insulators with various residues. This can be seen on the dismantled cell, as an easy removable film on the cylinders and insulators. In this case treat as a dead cell and dismantle, polish and clean all components after finding the cause of the problem. The usual causes are wrong welding material or flux, wrong cylinder material type, wrong insulator material type, or water problems as in section 1. above. Fill with fresh juvenile water and start at stage 1.
A3. The cell material has been magnetised by locating the cell near starter cables or other high current carrying wiring eg. Hi-Fi wiring, fog lamp or other types of ancillary lights wiring, winch wiring, etc. In this case find the magnetised component or components with you test magnet and replace or de-magnetise the affected components. A hot under bonnet location will cause similar problems. After fixing the cell relocate the cell or the offending items.
A4. The insulators or the cylinders are eaten away to some degree. You will pick this up in the discolouration of the water. If you followed my instructions this will not occur. The problem is incompatible steel or insulators with the water electrolyte combination. In any case treat the cell as dead, replace faulty components etc. as in A2
If the cell never worked at stage 3.
B1. The cylinder material type. As mentioned in Chapter 6, the material that you use is critical in you early learning stages. All 316L is not the same! Re read Chapter 6.
B2. The cell cylinder dimension is wrong. Re read Chapter 6 and Chapter 7. The cylinders must be level at the critical chamber separation area which are formed by the tops of the internal cylindrical tubes. Re check that the cylinders are level. You should see no light when measuring with a straight edge.
B3. The cylinder finish. As the top and bottom cuts are finished in a lathe, they should be absolutely smooth, ie. no file or cutting marks. Similarly there should not be any heat bands where the cylinders were cut. The surface of the rest of the cylinder does not have to be mirror smooth, but make sure that there is no longitudinal marks or scratches. If you followed Chapter 6, they will be Ok.
B4. Make sure that the welding is done as per Chapter 6. Make sure that all internal irregularities caused by the welding process are removed, without causing excessive localised hot spots.
B5. Make sure that all threaded couplings from the cell to the engine is metal to metal joints and the threads are not covered in sealants or Teflon tape etc.
B7. Make sure that the cell is air tight. If you apply your power source for a minute or two to the cell and block the outlet of the aluminium pipe with you finger only, you will feel the release of pressure on removal of your finger. Do not do this near flames and or explosive gasses! This will also check that your cell is not open circuit or shorted and that it is electrolysing.
B8. In B7 above, the most common electrical problems are the push fit of the 1/2 inch bolt into the 1 inch pipe, and the insulators between the 1 inch bolt and the lower cell exit point.
3. The charging operation
The failures can be sub divided into 3 sections;
A. Failure to get to stage 1. If you cannot get the water to electrolyse at all, you have not read Chapter 9. Even blind Freddie and his dog can do this. Hang you head in shame and take up another interest! Seriously, not many things can go wrong. If your power source is putting out about 12 Volts and if you have added the electrolyte as described, then you must have some bubble activity in the water. If still no bubbles in the water, connect a 12 Volt car globe of any type to the very ends of the leads that you are connecting to the cell. The lamp will light if you power source and your leads are Ok. Now remove the lamp and put the positive lead to the outside surface of the cell and the negative lead to the 1 inch bolt that connects to the 1 inch cylinder. If you still have no bubbles, the 1 inch bolt connection to the 1 inch tube is faulty, but highly unlikely. Re check the insulators that insulate the 1 inch bolt from the outer container. As there is now water in the cell you will not be able to do your insulation test but you should still read more than 10 Ohms resistance from the bolt to the case. Be careful of misleading readings if the cell is acting as a battery, as you Ohm measurement will be useless.
B. Failure to get to stage 2. By this I mean that the cell has not seeded and remains at the electrolysis stage. As explained, is the cell will not seed, the indication is there is no change in bubble size or surface tension. Boy oh boy, I have been here many a time myself and I suggest the following;
B1. The first and most common is the covering of the cylinders with a coating of various chemicals. In my early days, when I took the lazy way out and brazed or silver soldered my casing joints, this compound ended up all over the rest of the cell due to electrolysis. As the positive is the donor surface and the outer casing including welds, sealants etc., this fact aggravated the plating process.
B2. Another failure and resulting contamination, was the use of the wrong type of sealant on the central insulator for the sealing of the 1/2 inch bolt where it passes out through the bottom of the cell.
B3. Likewise, when I decided to press fit my outer cell components, I used an automotive silicon gasket cement on the joints. This also ended up plating the whole cell.
B4. If the water smells un-healthy or there is scum floating around, the water has gone bad. Replace with fresh water and go back to stage 1.
B5. Check that you insulators have retained the original manufactured colours. That is, if red rubber, make sure they are still red, if silicone tubing, make sure it is still clear etc. The insulators may be fine for stage 1 electrolysis, but may be very leaky to Orgone.
B6. You working area or you may be detrimental to the seeding of the cell. See 6. and 7.
B7 You are not covering the cell overnight and or between experiments. As previously explained, we want to keep a very mild air seal on the cell. This is easily done by placing a lid on the test cell or by having a spare aluminium plug in the end of the hose where it fits onto the engine fitting. Again I must repeat, DO NOT. use worm drive clips on both ends of the rubber coupling sleeve. The rubber sleeve must act as an one way exit for any pressure in the cell. The internal cell pressure must remain very close to atmospheric during operation.
B8. You are just too impatient! It may take 4 weeks to seed the cell! Just spend a few minute a day with it and go and do something else.
B9. You have used the wrong materials. This has already been covered. Please read 2.
B10. You have used the wrong water. Ditto. Please read 1.
B11. You are using the wrong charging method. Ditto. Please read 3.
Note. For all problems in this section due to contamination of the cell by deposits, water or materials, dismantle the cell, polish, clean and refill with juvenile water.
C. Failure to get to stage 3. This is the failure of the cell to breed. Again to repeat, this is the failure of the cell to keep increasing the initial seed density to a greater but still finite Orgone energy limit. Indicators will be a lack of long term bubble and surface tension retention and an obvious non operation or marginal operation. Usually you will get to stage 3 very soon ie. within days of stage 2. Another way of describing the failure of running at stage 3, is that the cell is leaky to such an extent, the Orgone force cannot accumulate sufficient density for our need's.
C1. The most common fault of the cells in not breeding, or insufficient breeding, is caused by marginal water, construction dimensions and materials. Please make sure that you have followed these notes to the letter. If you have modified or substituted components etc., you obviously know something that I do not know and if your cell had worked, I would love to hear from you. But as you are reading this and if you cell is not working, I suggest you follow my instructions to the letter, or try somebody else's, " how to build a Joe cell " book.
C2. Your working are or you may be detrimental to the cell's operation. Read 6. and 7.
4. Cell to car interface.
If you are looking for faults in this area, you know that you cell is at stage 3, but the engine refuses to run from the cell.
A1. Outlet pipe from cell.
A lot of different diameters and materials will work. I would suggest, like Joe that you use 20 mm. aluminium pipe. Due to electrolytic action copper will either pollute the cell, or pollute itself. The short piece of rubber or neoprene must not have any clips on the end that attaches over the blind aluminium plug. The idea is to let any pressure " burp " out, but not to let any air in. The fitting should act as a one way valve to pressure from the cell caused by the electrolytic action. The engine end of the aluminium pipe should have you Positive electrical connection secured to the pipe by means of the same short piece of hose being slipped over it. This end should have a clip to squeeze the hose and the electrical fitting to the pipe. What you are doing is providing your Positive connection at the very end of the outlet pipe. You Negative of course will go to the cars body, ( we are presuming a modern car that has a Negative earth system ). The pipe fitting to the top of the cell must be air tight without the use of sealants or Teflon tape etc. The compression fitting will do a good job of this. Try to twist the aluminium pipe out of the compression fitting, if tight, you will not be able to budge it. You pipe should also have some form of insulation around it to prevent contacts to the rest of the metallic parts of the car. Ideally, the cell should be similarly protected. Remember, just one short circuit and the cell is dead!
A2. Electrical connections. The Positive wire coming from the end of the aluminium pipe should go via a 5 Amp fuse to you " ignition on " wiring. By this I mean that the cell should only have the car power connected to it when the ignition is on. Some people prefer to run this wire via an off/on switch that is located in the car. When you connect your Negative to the car, it is preferable to connect it directly to the block if you earth straps from the motor or gearbox are suspect. Either way, with the ignition on, you should measure 12 Volts Positive on the cell body and 12 Volts Negative on the central bolt fitting. If not check you wiring, fuse, any switches, etc. The most probable cause of no Voltage is a blown fuse because you have shorted the cell. Find you short, replace the fuse and make sure that the cell goes to stage 3. If not, pull the cell out clean, polish, new water etc. ie. start again. The other most common problems are the use of sealants on the compression fitting. This is easy to find and fix. If you have 12 Volts across the cell, that does not mean necessarily that you have your 1 Amp current flow. To check this, temporally disconnect the Negative end of your cell from the car body or motor and put you Amp meter in series with the central bolt and the car connection. You should read your 1 Amp current flow. If not you have some high resistance connection's or wiring or the cell is faulty. As you are reading this because you know you cell is not faulty, the problem is either you aluminium pipe connection or you wiring. Locate the problem step by step, making sure that you do not short out or apply reverse polarity to the cell.
A3. Cell design. If you have made a cell with the wrong taper to you cone, the Orgone will focus before it gets to the motor and the cell will work brilliantly on the bench, but it will not run the car. The only reason this has occurred is that you did not build a cell as described in these notes.
A4. Cell location. Check as previously explained that the cell is located in a favourable location in the car. Is it in a cool place? is it level? Is it located as far as possible from high current wiring. Is it located in a low vibration area? Not like some rocket scientist who strapped it to his engine!!! As Orgone has a vertical preference once it leaves the cell, reduce horizontal pipe runs to a minimum. A cell located in the boot, with a 4 meter run to the engine is not a great idea. Again, a non leaky cell can run 60 meters or more into a horizontal tube, but why tempt fate? As far as the cell ( but not the passenger ) is concerned, for you first cell temporary location, the passenger foot well, with a pipe through the bulk head and a short, ( less than a meter ) pipe to the plug located at the rear of the engine ( non V8 ) works well.
Note. At this point of the trouble shooting list, you know that you cell is at stage 3 and that it is connected correctly to the car. So if things are still not working, leave this area alone! Do not undo what you know is working ie. Don't dismantle your cell or associated connections to the car, they are Ok.! Leave them alone and look for problems in the only remaining areas you have not covered, ie. Section 5, 6, and 7. Unless you keep a systematic approach to the installation and trouble shooting you will never get the cell to run the car.
5. Car modifications.
For a start, I will again state the obvious, some cars will be easier to modify than others. Or more importantly, not all persons will be able to modify all cars! So unless you are masochistic and want to make your friend's life a misery, choose an easy car! This of course may not be old faithful that is sitting in your garage. You should also have followed Chapter 10. before you read this.
You are reading this because, you KNOW that your cell is still breeding, ie. running at stage 3, your car connections are ok. and you electrical connections are ok. You have started your car on petrol and after it has warmed up, you either have turned of the electrical fuel pump, or you have turned of the fuel to or from the mechanical pump. Now as the fuel is used up in the fuel bowl or bowls the engine falters and stops, ( at this stage, I am not talking about fuel injected motors ). That is how I would expect you to test the change over phase. You are really pushing your luck, if you walk up to a stone dead car, remove the fuel to the engine and start cranking! I hope you have plenty of fully charged batteries!
The car will either run, run erratically or not at all.
1. Car shows no sign of running from the cell. By this I mean, that as soon as the motor runs out of fuel it stop. A lot of people get here, but blame the wrong components. As stated above, you are here because you know all sections up to here are working ok. This only leaves this Section and 6 and 7. So lets presume that the car is at fault as that is the present topic.
I can tell you for a fact, that a 1971 V8 Rover will start first shot and run like a dream, likewise a 1100cc Mini Minor will not even think of staring first time. Why? There is a lot of pet theories floating around but as these are my notes I will give you my theory based on logic.
Note, the following is a theory and eventually may be proven wrong. but the way I see it is, that the water and the cylinder bores in the motor act as a single layer Orgone accumulator, ie. an Organic material, ( water ), surrounding a non Organic cylinder, ( the bore ). As such an engine with a bore that is fully surrounded with water will be far superior than an engine that uses siamesed bores or casting methods, without the benefit of the totally water surrounding cylinder. Now as most aluminium blocks have metal sleeve cylinders pressed into the aluminium block for bores, this feature allows for a full water circulation and completes our single layer Orgone accumulator. It also makes it less leaky and more conducive to conversion to a Joe cell system. Remember Orgone loves water.
The above gives me a reason why some motors start first shot and others may take weeks to kick in. Two other effects hinder or help the above. The first is, that Orgone seems to " like " to travel in aluminium or it finds aluminium more difficult to penetrate. So it would have a tendency on leaving our aluminium pipe to either prefer the aluminium block or, once it was inside the block, it may have a greater difficulty in " leaking " out. I would be the first to admit that I do not understand this effect, but it is definitely there. As more information comes to hand, I will update these notes. The second is the easier conversion of V8 motors. As our blanking entry plug is located in the vee formed by the two banks of 4 cylinder's, the Orgone distribution from the cell is ideal, ie. it is a central entry, nearly equidistant and close to all cylinders. Another important feature is that the entry point it is on the cold side of the motor, ie. the exhaust system is on the " other side " of the cylinders. This also give a cross flow motor an advantage.
So what is to be made from the above? I would suggest, like Joe, to start on an easy conversion until you build up your own confidence and hence the " Y " factor. Either go and see a converted car so you can believe, or convert an old Rover or Leyland V8 as a group effort. I cannot see why the different club's and interest groups cannot pool together and purchase an old wreck.
If you insist in converting your cast iron whatever, be prepared to wait for the molecular changes that seems to occur to cast iron, siamesed bore and manifold type motors. As Joe stated, this may take 3 or 4 weeks. I have personally installed cells that are stage 3 and left them " running " on the car. The car was driven normally on petrol or gas, until the idle or engine operation noticeably changed. This was the indicator that the " molecular " changes have occurred and the car was ready. What you also may want to try is to replace the normal radiator water with charged stage 3 water. This should speed up the acclimatisation process. As most modern motors run some form of inhibitors and anti freeze additives in the water, you will have to consider the consequences of playing around with this mixture. The down side of dumping the additives may be increased corrosion on alloy component's, ie. head, manifold, water pump etc. Due to the tendency of the motor to run much cooler on the Joe cell, I would recommend that you leave the Glycol in the water. Obviously you throw all new car warranties out the window, the moment that you add the Joe cell and its related conversions to you car.
A2. Fuel injection cars. The simplest way to treat these cars is to perform a full conversion to gas. In this way you have a duel fuel system, ie. Joe cell or gas. Plus you pick up the advantages of a longer life span for your engine as per Chapter 10.
So really all that I can suggest in this section is that if the car will not start at ALL and all other Sections been covered, you should give the conversion a maximum of 4 weeks for the cell to take over. If the cell does not kick in that period, the chances are indeed slim that it will ever work. All cars including fork lifts, dragsters and diesel motors that Joe converted eventually ran! If your car will not, consult your favourite " expert ", or drop me a line only as a last resort when you have exhausted all other avenues. Please be reasonable, realise that I am only one person, I have a life and family, I do not get paid for my time by you or the hundreds of others requiring help. Irrespective, I will do my best to help.
A3. Car runs erratically. This could be caused by many things.
* The cell is marginal. Check that it is still at stage 3.
* The cell has become magnetised. See previous section.
* The day is hot, or the cell is too hot. Feel the cell!
* The day is wet or humid. See section 6.
* You or your passengers or animals are interacting with a marginal cell. See section 7.
* Your ignition timing is not optimised. Adjust!
* Your water has gone " off ", or you water level has gone down. Rectify!
* Your cell cylinders are polluted. Dismantle and clean.
* You are in a high DOR area with a marginal cell. Hopefully you can drive out of to before the cell dies.
* You are in a strip of low or reversed Orgone. As above.
* Sun or planetary activity is detrimental to cell output. Change over to " normal " fuel and wait for more favourable times.
A4. The car runs. Great! Good for you. But, please remember that it will not run all the time and will stop unexpectantly and with no warning signs, so always have a duel fuel system set up and ready to " kick in ". It is highly embarrassing being thousands of kilometres from home and asking the local mechanic to fix your Joe cell conversion! You should see an interesting look on his face.
The performance of your car will be determined on the reserve of Orgone density you have on demand. A leaky or under capacity cell will not give you maximum power. A good cell will give you at least the same and usually a greater power range with a sweeter running and more tractable motor.
6. Geographic location.
As mentioned, Orgone is not a constant, or even density cover on this planet. Some of the resulting problems are;
* The density varies seasonally.
* The density varies with the time of day.
* The density varies with planetary motions.
* The density varies with the sun's cycle.
* The density varies with altitude.
* The density varies with geographic location.
* The density varies with the " users " of the Orgone energy eg. a nearby car.
* The density varies with the weather.
* The density varies with the introduction of pollutants.
* the density varies with the earths and cosmic magnetism.
As you can see from the above, it is a wonder that we can use it at all, with our crude knowledge and even cruder cell. The main solution is to have a cell that is not too leaky. This means that the cell is always over producing thus giving you some valuable time to drive out of the unfavourable locality. This is why I have suggested that you should have a duel fuel system and at no stage rely on the cell alone. It is one thing to have it fail on your garage bench and a completely different thing to have it fail in the outback.
Orgone has a very big disliking for any form of man made electromagnetic radiation. So any large high voltage power line, transmitters, airport radar, military installations or radio active sources will set up a reaction with the Orgone to create DOR. This may be so severe, that as Joe say's, " the water has gone bad ". Unfortunately, as you are probably already anticipating what I am going to write, this requires a clean of the cylinders and insulators , fresh water, etc.
7. The Y factor.
or the rational, proof only, and died in the wool scientific types, you are going to hate this one! Basically as Reich discovered, the Y factor simply stands for You. Yes, unfortunately when you get to the grey areas where known science merges into the unknown, you enter areas that will stretch your belief system if you so allow it. I could have very easily left the so called non scientific mumbo jumbo out of this book and so given myself " scientific credibility " whatever that means. Luckily, as I am self funded and do not live on grants by writing " selected " papers, no multi national can conveniently shut me up or rephrase the above to suit their needs.
In actuality, it is immaterial if you believe or do not believe in the Y factor, either way it exists and you really should consider the concept of all creation being intimately linked permanently and instantly.
The Y factor will make your Joe cell either not seed at all or not breed or breed poorly or behave in an intermittent fashion depending on the living energies around it at any one time. This is not a fable coming out of my demented brain, but an observed fact, recorded from all over the world for countless centuries.
The best procedure with the cell, or for that matter any endeavour is to treat it with an open mind. You do not have to believe that it will work, but similarly you should not doubt that it can work. Do not analyse too much or apply blinkers to you thinking process by presuming that you have learned all that there is to know and this cell could never work. Unless you are the Almighty himself, you will learn new things every day for the rest of your . I have talked to many, many intelligent individuals that simply refuse to believe that a car can run on what they see as nothing, nor how this nothing can get into a " solid metal " engine through no openings and produce no measurable pollution. But these same individuals who consider themselves sane, with reservations for my sanity, are quite happy to spend large sums of money or follow some outlandish new age fad in medicine or self healing techniques with even less proof or science!
CLOSING COMMENT.
My dear patient reader. At no stage have I said that the Joe cell is similar to making a bread toaster. As you are dealing with a little known mass less life force, you are behind the 8 ball right from the start, your battle is uphill and lonely, with jeering and laughing " experts " on both sides waiting for you to fall. Similarly at no stage have I said that all people can convert all cars. Likewise, once you have converted your chosen car, there is no guarantee in how long it will run, before the breeding stops and or the seed dies.
With the right mind set, all the above are minor problems and enjoyable challenges. But if you approach this conversion, in a rush, not really believing in your heart that it can work, or with the intention of making lots of quick money, the Y factor is going to bite you! Don't even start, you are wasting your time and money. Think about it! If it was so easy and if all and sundry could exploit the life force, why is it not in mass production out in the real world? The answer is simple. It is exactly the mind set of these type of individuals that prevents them from utilising mother nature's secrets.
May aim has been to show you a method of cell construction that works for me. Obviously, there are many different ways of encourage the life force to enter an accumulator, storing it, increasing the stored density and finally utilising the force as you make it work on its release. I have read all materials available to me relating to the life force and its utilisation. Over 6 years, I have compiled, analysed and experimented with the combinations that showed the greatest potential. I am not infallible, nor do I claim I make the best cells. I only claim that I make cells that work! You are reading some of this work. As I give you this information freely, I hope that you will also distribute it freely. What you do with this knowledge is your decision. Hopefully, as a result of your efforts you will share any new knowledge or short cuts with the rest of us, so we can all grow together as a brotherhood.
Chapter 12.
Do not over analyse or overexperiment.
This will destroy the experiment and it's creative Orgonomic force.
Dr. Wilhelm Reich
When things go wrong.
well, my dear reader, you are reading this section for alternative reasons, some are;
A. You always read a book or notes from cover to cover before you start a construction project. Great, good idea, read on.
B. You are an armchair scientist and you are reading this information to see how it fits in with your own pet opinions on the subject. Good luck and I hope if you find something to contribute, you will do so freely and in brotherly love.
C. You are reading this chapter because you have made a cell by other methods and are looking for a quick fix. I would strongly recommend that you read and absorb all the previous chapters, as you may have a borderline cell and it may be better to construct a new cell.
D. You are here because you have followed exactly, all my suggestions, and you car will not run on the cell.
In the above, I am only interested in reader D.
Approach to the problem
All problems irrespective of complexity can be solved. in a methodical rational fashion If it looks insurmountable, break it down into convenient smaller section's that you can cope with. Have this smaller section cover one topic only. Make sure that you have a working knowledge of the topic. Take your time , and have somebody else to talk with regarding your chosen solution and approach.
It is important that you change one variable at a time only! If you change variables in a haphazard method or without recording you observations, at the end of the day, you will be worse of than when you started. I would suggest that you break up your problem into the following topics.
Fault finding topics
1. The water.
1a. Cell maintenance.
2. The cell construction.
3. The charging operation.
4. Cell to car interface.
5. Car modifications.
6. Geographic location.
7. Y factor.
1. The water
The single most common problem that you will encounter is the water. As Joe remarked on many times, the " water goes bad ". Not a scientific explanation but well said.
So, what are some of the problems with the water?
A. Is the water dead or polluted right from the start? If you collected, transported and stored the water personally, you should know its history. Re read Chapter 8. If you still doubt your water try the following. Orgone accumulates in water and as such, when you transfer the water out of the cell, you take the charge with it. Therefore, if you, or an acquaintance has a good, ie. stage 3 cell, the water can now be substituted into the suspect cell. On now powering up the suspect cell, within 1 minute you cell should be at stage 3. If the suspect cell does not come up to stage 3, the water is not at fault! The above is by far the easiest way to test a suspect cell, unfortunately you will need another cell or external help.
Note. Do not leave the charged water outside its cell for longer than 1 hour as it is not breeding.
B. Has the pH of your water changed? Simply run your pH test on the cell water. The reading should be the same. If not either the cylinders or the insulators are breaking down and reacting with the water and electrolyte. Make sure that you followed charging, insulator and cylinder material type recommendations.
C. Is the water clear? As in B., the cylinders or insulators are breaking down. Or the cell has gone into a base matter creation mode. As this topic is highly controversial and not pertinent to this subject, your only option is to completely dismantle, polish and clean the cell and or replace the insulators. Fill with fresh juvenile water. Go through charge stages as per Chapter 9.
D. Is there any residue in the sump? As in B. and C. above.
E. Are the stage 3 breeding indicators behaving the same? Read chapter 9 and make sure that the behaviour of the bubbles and meniscus are the same, especially the long term bubble retention. Again if all else fails try the voltage check.
F. Have you changed locations and the cell is now sitting in a low density Orgone strip? Make sure that the cell is at stage 3. Read Chapter 9.
G. Have you accidentally shorted out the cell or reversed polarity to it? See if it goes back to stage 3 if you apply power to it for 1 minute. If not dismantle, polish and clean all components. Fill with fresh juvenile water. Go through charge stages in Chapter 9..
H. Have you allowed the seed to die? Read Chapter 9. Go through stage 1, stage 2 and stage 3 process. The cell may go to stage 2 or even stage 3 within 3 minutes.
I. Has the cell fallen over at any stage? Try 1 minute charge and see if the cell goes to stage 3. If not, dismantle, polish and clean all components. Fill with fresh juvenile water. Go through charge stages in Chapter 9.
1a. Cell maintenance.
I have found after a cell has been in operation for about 6 months, although there is no external indications of malfunction, ie. the cell is happily breeding, it is a good idea to do the equivalent of an oil change and grease. You may find one or more of the following;
* There is a light deposit on the cylinders particularly the outside of the 1 inch and 2 inch.
* The cylinders may have sagged from the vibration, ie. they are not flat on the top horizontal alignment..
* If rubber insulators are used, you will find that the have developed a set.
* Some of the insulators particularly the inner top ones may have a light white or grey deposit on them.
* There may be a slight suspension or colloid towards the bottom of the cell.
* There may be slight indications of a brown sediment on top of the water.
* The cell metal parts may have become magnetised.
* The lower insulators for the bolt may have shrunk and could be weeping.
* The electrical connections to the cell may be loose or corroded.
* The compression fitting for the aluminium pipe may be loose.
* The short piece of rubber or neoprene hose to the blanking plug may have aged.
The cure for the above are self explanatory. The only difficult one is if the cell has become magnetised. You may be able to degauss the cell or at worst you may have to have the offending cylinder replaced or heat treated. When you demagnetise your cell find a better location for it, or it will only happen again!
I do a regular 6 month service on my cells. The steps I perform are as follows; I pour out the charged water into a 5 litre glass container and put it in a cool dark area. Obviously the glass cylinder is clean and only used for you Joe cell work! Remember you have approximately 1 hour to replace the charged water back into a seeding and breeding cell. I next dismantle the cell and clean all surfaces with mild acetic acid. I find that it is not necessary to repolish the cylinders, but you may do so if it makes you feel better. I rotate any rubber insulators 180 degrees so as to use a fresh surface with no set. I lubricate my bolt and associated insulators with Vaseline and reassemble the cell. By this time the charged water has been sitting for about 1/2 hour in the glass cylinder and the majority of the sediment has settled to the bottom of the glass container. I now pour the charged water back into the cell using a paper coffee filter to catch any sediment. I stop pouring the charged water into the cell, when the first drops of water with the sediments starts to leave the glass container. This water I discard or have analysed to amuse myself. I now top up the cell with fresh juvenile water and connect the cell to the power supply. Within seconds you will see a fine white cloud develop on top of the water. This is the residue of the acetic acid that you used to clean the cell with. I remove this simply by wiping the top of the water surface with a paper towel. Within 1 minute your cell will be back at stage 3. That's it, you have just completed you 6 month service.
Note. I will repeat again in case you have forgotten, but all water, containers, funnel etc. must have only juvenile water used in the cleaning or transferring of water for the cell maintenance. It requires a very small quantity of tap water that has been " enhanced " by good old mankind to kill the cell. Don't blame me if you have to start at stage 1 again by being lazy.
2. The cell construction
Needless to say, you should have followed the cell construction Chapters to the letter. If you did not, you obviously know how to make a different type of cell, and these notes will not be 100% relevant, or you have chosen to be creative, frugal, haphazard, or slap happy at the wrong time. I repeat, you are not making a toaster! You are trying to induce the life force to work for you. You cannot capture the life force as in a cage. It will enter and exit as it sees fit. It can penetrate all materials!
If the cell was working at stage 3 and now will not work.
A1. A common problem is that the cell cylinders have moved due to rough handling, vibration, or the wrong diameter insulators. The fix is a dismantle and re alignment. Make sure that you hands are clean!
A2. Another common problem is the covering of the cylinders and insulators with various residues. This can be seen on the dismantled cell, as an easy removable film on the cylinders and insulators. In this case treat as a dead cell and dismantle, polish and clean all components after finding the cause of the problem. The usual causes are wrong welding material or flux, wrong cylinder material type, wrong insulator material type, or water problems as in section 1. above. Fill with fresh juvenile water and start at stage 1.
A3. The cell material has been magnetised by locating the cell near starter cables or other high current carrying wiring eg. Hi-Fi wiring, fog lamp or other types of ancillary lights wiring, winch wiring, etc. In this case find the magnetised component or components with you test magnet and replace or de-magnetise the affected components. A hot under bonnet location will cause similar problems. After fixing the cell relocate the cell or the offending items.
A4. The insulators or the cylinders are eaten away to some degree. You will pick this up in the discolouration of the water. If you followed my instructions this will not occur. The problem is incompatible steel or insulators with the water electrolyte combination. In any case treat the cell as dead, replace faulty components etc. as in A2
If the cell never worked at stage 3.
B1. The cylinder material type. As mentioned in Chapter 6, the material that you use is critical in you early learning stages. All 316L is not the same! Re read Chapter 6.
B2. The cell cylinder dimension is wrong. Re read Chapter 6 and Chapter 7. The cylinders must be level at the critical chamber separation area which are formed by the tops of the internal cylindrical tubes. Re check that the cylinders are level. You should see no light when measuring with a straight edge.
B3. The cylinder finish. As the top and bottom cuts are finished in a lathe, they should be absolutely smooth, ie. no file or cutting marks. Similarly there should not be any heat bands where the cylinders were cut. The surface of the rest of the cylinder does not have to be mirror smooth, but make sure that there is no longitudinal marks or scratches. If you followed Chapter 6, they will be Ok.
B4. Make sure that the welding is done as per Chapter 6. Make sure that all internal irregularities caused by the welding process are removed, without causing excessive localised hot spots.
B5. Make sure that all threaded couplings from the cell to the engine is metal to metal joints and the threads are not covered in sealants or Teflon tape etc.
B7. Make sure that the cell is air tight. If you apply your power source for a minute or two to the cell and block the outlet of the aluminium pipe with you finger only, you will feel the release of pressure on removal of your finger. Do not do this near flames and or explosive gasses! This will also check that your cell is not open circuit or shorted and that it is electrolysing.
B8. In B7 above, the most common electrical problems are the push fit of the 1/2 inch bolt into the 1 inch pipe, and the insulators between the 1 inch bolt and the lower cell exit point.
3. The charging operation
The failures can be sub divided into 3 sections;
A. Failure to get to stage 1. If you cannot get the water to electrolyse at all, you have not read Chapter 9. Even blind Freddie and his dog can do this. Hang you head in shame and take up another interest! Seriously, not many things can go wrong. If your power source is putting out about 12 Volts and if you have added the electrolyte as described, then you must have some bubble activity in the water. If still no bubbles in the water, connect a 12 Volt car globe of any type to the very ends of the leads that you are connecting to the cell. The lamp will light if you power source and your leads are Ok. Now remove the lamp and put the positive lead to the outside surface of the cell and the negative lead to the 1 inch bolt that connects to the 1 inch cylinder. If you still have no bubbles, the 1 inch bolt connection to the 1 inch tube is faulty, but highly unlikely. Re check the insulators that insulate the 1 inch bolt from the outer container. As there is now water in the cell you will not be able to do your insulation test but you should still read more than 10 Ohms resistance from the bolt to the case. Be careful of misleading readings if the cell is acting as a battery, as you Ohm measurement will be useless.
B. Failure to get to stage 2. By this I mean that the cell has not seeded and remains at the electrolysis stage. As explained, is the cell will not seed, the indication is there is no change in bubble size or surface tension. Boy oh boy, I have been here many a time myself and I suggest the following;
B1. The first and most common is the covering of the cylinders with a coating of various chemicals. In my early days, when I took the lazy way out and brazed or silver soldered my casing joints, this compound ended up all over the rest of the cell due to electrolysis. As the positive is the donor surface and the outer casing including welds, sealants etc., this fact aggravated the plating process.
B2. Another failure and resulting contamination, was the use of the wrong type of sealant on the central insulator for the sealing of the 1/2 inch bolt where it passes out through the bottom of the cell.
B3. Likewise, when I decided to press fit my outer cell components, I used an automotive silicon gasket cement on the joints. This also ended up plating the whole cell.
B4. If the water smells un-healthy or there is scum floating around, the water has gone bad. Replace with fresh water and go back to stage 1.
B5. Check that you insulators have retained the original manufactured colours. That is, if red rubber, make sure they are still red, if silicone tubing, make sure it is still clear etc. The insulators may be fine for stage 1 electrolysis, but may be very leaky to Orgone.
B6. You working area or you may be detrimental to the seeding of the cell. See 6. and 7.
B7. You are not covering the cell overnight and or between experiments. As previously explained, we want to keep a very mild air seal on the cell. This is easily done by placing a lid on the test cell or by having a spare aluminium plug in the end of the hose where it fits onto the engine fitting. Again I must repeat, DO NOT. use worm drive clips on both ends of the rubber coupling sleeve. The rubber sleeve must act as an one way exit for any pressure in the cell. The internal cell pressure must remain very close to atmospheric during operation.
B8. You are just too impatient! It may take 4 weeks to seed the cell! Just spend a few minute a day with it and go and do something else.
B9. You have used the wrong materials. This has already been covered. Please read 2.
B10. You have used the wrong water. Ditto. Please read 1.
B11. You are using the wrong charging method. Ditto. Please read 3.
Note. For all problems in this section due to contamination of the cell by deposits, water or materials, dismantle the cell, polish, clean and refill with juvenile water.
C. Failure to get to stage 3. This is the failure of the cell to breed. Again to repeat, this is the failure of the cell to keep increasing the initial seed density to a greater but still finite Orgone energy limit. Indicators will be a lack of long term bubble and surface tension retention and an obvious non operation or marginal operation. Usually you will get to stage 3 very soon ie. within days of stage 2. Another way of describing the failure of running at stage 3, is that the cell is leaky to such an extent, the Orgone force cannot accumulate sufficient density for our need's.
C1. The most common fault of the cells in not breeding, or insufficient breeding, is caused by marginal water, construction dimensions and materials. Please make sure that you have followed these notes to the letter. If you have modified or substituted components etc., you obviously know something that I do not know and if your cell had worked, I would love to hear from you. But as you are reading this and if you cell is not working, I suggest you follow my instructions to the letter, or try somebody else's, " how to build a Joe cell " book.
C2. Your working are or you may be detrimental to the cell's operation. Read 6. and 7.
4. Cell to car interface.
If you are looking for faults in this area, you know that you cell is at stage 3, but the engine refuses to run from the cell.
A1. Outlet pipe from cell.
A lot of different diameters and materials will work. I would suggest, like Joe that you use 20 mm. aluminium pipe. Due to electrolytic action copper will either pollute the cell, or pollute itself. The short piece of rubber or neoprene must not have any clips on the end that attaches over the blind aluminium plug. The idea is to let any pressure " burp " out, but not to let any air in. The fitting should act as a one way valve to pressure from the cell caused by the electrolytic action. The engine end of the aluminium pipe should have you Positive electrical connection secured to the pipe by means of the same short piece of hose being slipped over it. This end should have a clip to squeeze the hose and the electrical fitting to the pipe. What you are doing is providing your Positive connection at the very end of the outlet pipe. You Negative of course will go to the cars body, ( we are presuming a modern car that has a Negative earth system ). The pipe fitting to the top of the cell must be air tight without the use of sealants or Teflon tape etc. The compression fitting will do a good job of this. Try to twist the aluminium pipe out of the compression fitting, if tight, you will not be able to budge it. You pipe should also have some form of insulation around it to prevent contacts to the rest of the metallic parts of the car. Ideally, the cell should be similarly protected. Remember, just one short circuit and the cell is dead!
A2. Electrical connections. The Positive wire coming from the end of the aluminium pipe should go via a 5 Amp fuse to you " ignition on " wiring. By this I mean that the cell should only have the car power connected to it when the ignition is on. Some people prefer to run this wire via an off/on switch that is located in the car. When you connect your Negative to the car, it is preferable to connect it directly to the block if you earth straps from the motor or gearbox are suspect. Either way, with the ignition on, you should measure 12 Volts Positive on the cell body and 12 Volts Negative on the central bolt fitting. If not check you wiring, fuse, any switches, etc. The most probable cause of no Voltage is a blown fuse because you have shorted the cell. Find you short, replace the fuse and make sure that the cell goes to stage 3. If not, pull the cell out clean, polish, new water etc. ie. start again. The other most common problems are the use of sealants on the compression fitting. This is easy to find and fix. If you have 12 Volts across the cell, that does not mean necessarily that you have your 1 Amp current flow. To check this, temporally disconnect the Negative end of your cell from the car body or motor and put you Amp meter in series with the central bolt and the car connection. You should read your 1 Amp current flow. If not you have some high resistance connection's or wiring or the cell is faulty. As you are reading this because you know you cell is not faulty, the problem is either you aluminium pipe connection or you wiring. Locate the problem step by step, making sure that you do not short out or apply reverse polarity to the cell.
A3. Cell design. If you have made a cell with the wrong taper to you cone, the Orgone will focus before it gets to the motor and the cell will work brilliantly on the bench, but it will not run the car. The only reason this has occurred is that you did not build a cell as described in these notes.
A4. Cell location. Check as previously explained that the cell is located in a favourable location in the car. Is it in a cool place? is it level? Is it located as far as possible from high current wiring. Is it located in a low vibration area? Not like some rocket scientist who strapped it to his engine!!! As Orgone has a vertical preference once it leaves the cell, reduce horizontal pipe runs to a minimum. A cell located in the boot, with a 4 meter run to the engine is not a great idea. Again, a non leaky cell can run 60 meters or more into a horizontal tube, but why tempt fate? As far as the cell ( but not the passenger ) is concerned, for you first cell temporary location, the passenger foot well, with a pipe through the bulk head and a short, ( less than a meter ) pipe to the plug located at the rear of the engine ( non V8 ) works well.
Note. At this point of the trouble shooting list, you know that you cell is at stage 3 and that it is connected correctly to the car. So if things are still not working, leave this area alone! Do not undo what you know is working ie. Don't dismantle your cell or associated connections to the car, they are Ok.! Leave them alone and look for problems in the only remaining areas you have not covered, ie. Section 5, 6, and 7. Unless you keep a systematic approach to the installation and trouble shooting you will never get the cell to run the car.
5. Car modifications.
For a start, I will again state the obvious, some cars will be easier to modify than others. Or more importantly, not all persons will be able to modify all cars! So unless you are masochistic and want to make your friend's life a misery, choose an easy car! This of course may not be old faithful that is sitting in your garage. You should also have followed Chapter 10. before you read this.
You are reading this because, you KNOW that your cell is still breeding, ie. running at stage 3, your car connections are ok. and you electrical connections are ok. You have started your car on petrol and after it has warmed up, you either have turned of the electrical fuel pump, or you have turned of the fuel to or from the mechanical pump. Now as the fuel is used up in the fuel bowl or bowls the engine falters and stops, ( at this stage, I am not talking about fuel injected motors ). That is how I would expect you to test the change over phase. You are really pushing your luck, if you walk up to a stone dead car, remove the fuel to the engine and start cranking! I hope you have plenty of fully charged batteries!
The car will either run, run erratically or not at all.
A1. Car shows no sign of running from the cell. By this I mean, that as soon as the motor runs out of fuel it stop. A lot of people get here, but blame the wrong components. As stated above, you are here because you know all sections up to here are working ok. This only leaves this Section and 6 and 7. So lets presume that the car is at fault as that is the present topic.
I can tell you for a fact, that a 1971 V8 Rover will start first shot and run like a dream, likewise a 1100cc Mini Minor will not even think of staring first time. Why? There is a lot of pet theories floating around but as these are my notes I will give you my theory based on logic.
Note, the following is a theory and eventually may be proven wrong. but the way I see it is, that the water and the cylinder bores in the motor act as a single layer Orgone accumulator, ie. an Organic material, ( water ), surrounding a non Organic cylinder, ( the bore ). As such an engine with a bore that is fully surrounded with water will be far superior than an engine that uses siamesed bores or casting methods, without the benefit of the totally water surrounding cylinder. Now as most aluminium blocks have metal sleeve cylinders pressed into the aluminium block for bores, this feature allows for a full water circulation and completes our single layer Orgone accumulator. It also makes it less leaky and more conducive to conversion to a Joe cell system. Remember Orgone loves water.
The above gives me a reason why some motors start first shot and others may take weeks to kick in. Two other effects hinder or help the above. The first is, that Orgone seems to " like " to travel in aluminium or it finds aluminium more difficult to penetrate. So it would have a tendency on leaving our aluminium pipe to either prefer the aluminium block or, once it was inside the block, it may have a greater difficulty in " leaking " out. I would be the first to admit that I do not understand this effect, but it is definitely there. As more information comes to hand, I will update these notes. The second is the easier conversion of V8 motors. As our blanking entry plug is located in the vee formed by the two banks of 4 cylinder's, the Orgone distribution from the cell is ideal, ie. it is a central entry, nearly equidistant and close to all cylinders. Another important feature is that the entry point it is on the cold side of the motor, ie. the exhaust system is on the " other side " of the cylinders. This also give a cross flow motor an advantage.
So what is to be made from the above? I would suggest, like Joe, to start on an easy conversion until you build up your own confidence and hence the " Y " factor. Either go and see a converted car so you can believe, or convert an old Rover or Leyland V8 as a group effort. I cannot see why the different club's and interest groups cannot pool together and purchase an old wreck.
If you insist in converting your cast iron whatever, be prepared to wait for the molecular changes that seems to occur to cast iron, siamesed bore and manifold type motors. As Joe stated, this may take 3 or 4 weeks. I have personally installed cells that are stage 3 and left them " running " on the car. The car was driven normally on petrol or gas, until the idle or engine operation noticeably changed. This was the indicator that the " molecular " changes have occurred and the car was ready. What you also may want to try is to replace the normal radiator water with charged stage 3 water. This should speed up the acclimatisation process. As most modern motors run some form of inhibitors and anti freeze additives in the water, you will have to consider the consequences of playing around with this mixture. The down side of dumping the additives may be increased corrosion on alloy component's, ie. head, manifold, water pump etc. Due to the tendency of the motor to run much cooler on the Joe cell, I would recommend that you leave the Glycol in the water. Obviously you throw all new car warranties out the window, the moment that you add the Joe cell and its related conversions to you car.
A2. Fuel injection cars. The simplest way to treat these cars is to perform a full conversion to gas. In this way you have a duel fuel system, ie. Joe cell or gas. Plus you pick up the advantages of a longer life span for your engine as per Chapter 10.
So really all that I can suggest in this section is that if the car will not start at ALL and all other Sections been covered, you should give the conversion a maximum of 4 weeks for the cell to take over. If the cell does not kick in that period, the chances are indeed slim that it will ever work. All cars including fork lifts, dragsters and diesel motors that Joe converted eventually ran! If your car will not, consult your favourite " expert ", or drop me a line only as a last resort when you have exhausted all other avenues. Please be reasonable, realise that I am only one person, I have a life and family, I do not get paid for my time by you or the hundreds of others requiring help. Irrespective, I will do my best to help.
A3. Car runs erratically. This could be caused by many things.
* The cell is marginal. Check that it is still at stage 3.
* The cell has become magnetised. See previous section.
* The day is hot, or the cell is too hot. Feel the cell!
* The day is wet or humid. See section 6.
* You or your passengers or animals are interacting with a marginal cell. See section 7.
* Your ignition timing is not optimised. Adjust!
* Your water has gone " off ", or you water level has gone down. Rectify!
* Your cell cylinders are polluted. Dismantle and clean.
* You are in a high DOR area with a marginal cell. Hopefully you can drive out of to before the cell dies.
* You are in a strip of low or reversed Orgone. As above.
* Sun or planetary activity is detrimental to cell output. Change over to " normal " fuel and wait for more favourable times.
A4. The car runs. Great! Good for you. But, please remember that it will not run all the time and will stop unexpectantly and with no warning signs, so always have a duel fuel system set up and ready to " kick in ". It is highly embarrassing being thousands of kilometres from home and asking the local mechanic to fix your Joe cell conversion! You should see an interesting look on his face.
The performance of your car will be determined on the reserve of Orgone density you have on demand. A leaky or under capacity cell will not give you maximum power. A good cell will give you at least the same and usually a greater power range with a sweeter running and more tractable motor.
6. Geographic location.
As mentioned, Orgone is not a constant, or even density cover on this planet. Some of the resulting problems are;
* The density varies seasonally.
* The density varies with the time of day.
* The density varies with planetary motions.
* The density varies with the sun's cycle.
* The density varies with altitude.
* The density varies with geographic location.
* The density varies with the " users " of the Orgone energy eg. a nearby car.
* The density varies with the weather.
* The density varies with the introduction of pollutants.
* the density varies with the earths and cosmic magnetism.
As you can see from the above, it is a wonder that we can use it at all, with our crude knowledge and even cruder cell. The main solution is to have a cell that is not too leaky. This means that the cell is always over producing thus giving you some valuable time to drive out of the unfavourable locality. This is why I have suggested that you should have a duel fuel system and at no stage rely on the cell alone. It is one thing to have it fail on your garage bench and a completely different thing to have it fail in the outback.
Orgone has a very big disliking for any form of man made electromagnetic radiation. So any large high voltage power line, transmitters, airport radar, military installations or radio active sources will set up a reaction with the Orgone to create DOR. This may be so severe, that as Joe say's, " the water has gone bad ". Unfortunately, as you are probably already anticipating what I am going to write, this requires a clean of the cylinders and insulators , fresh water, etc.
7. The Y factor.
For the rational, proof only, and died in the wool scientific types, you are going to hate this one! Basically as Reich discovered, the Y factor simply stands for You. Yes, unfortunately when you get to the grey areas where known science merges into the unknown, you enter areas that will stretch your belief system if you so allow it. I could have very easily left the so called non scientific mumbo jumbo out of this book and so given myself " scientific credibility " whatever that means. Luckily, as I am self funded and do not live on grants by writing " selected " papers, no multi national can conveniently shut me up or rephrase the above to suit their needs.
In actuality, it is immaterial if you believe or do not believe in the Y factor, either way it exists and you really should consider the concept of all creation being intimately linked permanently and instantly.
The Y factor will make your Joe cell either not seed at all or not breed or breed poorly or behave in an intermittent fashion depending on the living energies around it at any one time. This is not a fable coming out of my demented brain, but an observed fact, recorded from all over the world for countless centuries.
The best procedure with the cell, or for that matter any endeavour is to treat it with an open mind. You do not have to believe that it will work, but similarly you should not doubt that it can work. Do not analyse too much or apply blinkers to you thinking process by presuming that you have learned all that there is to know and this cell could never work. Unless you are the Almighty himself, you will learn new things every day for the rest of your . I have talked to many, many intelligent individuals that simply refuse to believe that a car can run on what they see as nothing, nor how this nothing can get into a " solid metal " engine through no openings and produce no measurable pollution. But these same individuals who consider themselves sane, with reservations for my sanity, are quite happy to spend large sums of money or follow some outlandish new age fad in medicine or self healing techniques with even less proof or science!
CLOSING COMMENT.
My dear patient reader. At no stage have I said that the Joe cell is similar to making a bread toaster. As you are dealing with a little known mass less life force, you are behind the 8 ball right from the start, your battle is uphill and lonely, with jeering and laughing " experts " on both sides waiting for you to fall. Similarly at no stage have I said that all people can convert all cars. Likewise, once you have converted your chosen car, there is no guarantee in how long it will run, before the breeding stops and or the seed dies.
With the right mind set, all the above are minor problems and enjoyable challenges. But if you approach this conversion, in a rush, not really believing in your heart that it can work, or with the intention of making lots of quick money, the Y factor is going to bite you! Don't even start, you are wasting your time and money. Think about it! If it was so easy and if all and sundry could exploit the life force, why is it not in mass production out in the real world? The answer is simple. It is exactly the mind set of these type of individuals that prevents them from utilising mother nature's secrets.
May aim has been to show you a method of cell construction that works for me. Obviously, there are many different ways of encourage the life force to enter an accumulator, storing it, increasing the stored density and finally utilising the force as you make it work on its release. I have read all materials available to me relating to the life force and its utilisation. Over 6 years, I have compiled, analysed and experimented with the combinations that showed the greatest potential. I am not infallible, nor do I claim I make the best cells. I only claim that I make cells that work! You are reading some of this work. As I give you this information freely, I hope that you will also distribute it freely. What you do with this knowledge is your decision. Hopefully, as a result of your efforts you will share any new knowledge or short cuts with the rest of us, so we can all grow together as a brotherhood.
GLOSSARY
Acid A substance which releases hydrogen ions when it is added to water. The hydrogen ions is solvated ie. a water molecule adds on to it, to give the oxonium ion.
Accumulator In our case a rechargeable Ozone concentrating container
Alkali A base which is soluble in water. They are usually metal hydroxides eg. sodium hydroxide, but ammonia solution is also an alkali.
Alloy Is a mixture which is made up of two or more metals or more metals or which contains metals and non-metals.
Aluminium The most abundant metal in the earths crust, ( approximately 8% by mass ). It is obtained by electrolysis of Bauxite
Ampere This is the unit of electric current. It measures the rate of flow of charge. 1 Amp = 1 coulomb/second.
Anion A negatively charged ion.
Anode When a solution undergoes electrolysis the electrode with the Positive potential is called the anode. In the Joe cell, it is the outer casing.
Atom The smallest indivisible particle of an element that can exist.
Battery A device which converts chemical energy into electrical energy.
Brass Is an alloy of copper and zinc.
Bronze The combination of >90% copper and <10% tin.
Capillarity The tendency of the water in a Joe cell to move up the sides of the cylinders depending on the relative attraction of the water molecules to each other and to the cylinder walls.
Cathode The Negatively charged pole in a battery or electrolytic cell.
Cation A positively charged ion.
Cell Defined in our case as an accumulator of Orgone energy.
Conductor an electrical conductor is a substance which allow an electric current to flow through it.
Current Electric current is the movement of electrons through a conductor. It is measured in Amperes.
DC Direct Current. The type of electrical current produced form a simple cell or battery.
Distilled water Tap water and rain water are not pure. They contain salts and dissolved gases. Water is often distilled to increase purity. Most of the salts are left behind but the water may still contain dissolved gases. The presence of carbon dioxide reduces the pH of the water considerably.
Electrode An electrode is a conductor which dips into an electrolyte and allows the current ( electrons ) to flow to and from the electrolyte.
Electrolyte An electrolyte is a solution which contains ions.
Electrolysis When a direct current is passed through a liquid which contains ions( an electrolyte ), chemical changes occur at the two electrodes.
Element A pure substance which cannot be broken down into anything simpler by chemical means.
Fuel A fuel is a substance that releases heat energy when treated in a certain way. In most fuels, the energy is released by combustion. So strictly speaking, when the car is running on the Joe cell, it is not using any fuel.
Hydrogen A gaseous diatomic element. The atom consists of one proton and one electron.
Insulator. A substance which in our case is a poor conductor of both electricity and Orgone.
Ions A species which possesses an electrical charge. When an atom gains or loses an electron it becomes an ion.
Ionisation When an atom loses or gain electrons it becomes an ion. This gain or loss is termed ionisation.
Iron The most widely used metallic element. One of the main problems with iron is that it rusts.
Leaky The inability of our cell to retain the Orgone charge over a period of time.
Litmus This is extracted from lichen and used as an acid-base indicator.
Mass This is how much material a substance possesses. It is usually measured in grams or kilograms.
Meniscus The curved upper surface of the water in the Joe cell, caused by capillarity action.
Molecule A molecule is defined as the smallest particle of an element or compound which exists independently.
Nucleus This is the part of an atom where the mass is concentrated. It contains protons and neutrons.
Neutrons This is one of the particles which are found in the nucleus of all atoms except hydrogen. It has approximately the same mass as the proton but no charge.
Nitrogen It is an unreactive diatomic gas which forms about 78% of the atmosphere.
Orgone The cosmic life force. see section on Orgone in book.
Oxonium ion The loss of an electron from a hydrogen atom leads to the formation of a hydrogen ion. This is a proton.
Oxygen A gaseous non metallic element. It makes 21% of the atmosphere.
Petrol A mixture of hydrocarbons which is used as a fuel.
pH pH scale is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution. The lower the value, the more acidic is the solution. ie. the larger the concentration of oxonium ions there are within it. A neutral solution, where the concentration of oxonium and hydroxide ions are equal, has a pH of 7.
Example, Strong acid = 0, weak acid =4, water = 7, ammonia solution = 10, strong alkali = 14.
Pipette A piece of glassware used for measuring and transferring a volume of liquid.
Polymer Polymers are large molecules in which group of atoms are repeated.
Proton A positively charged subatomic particle found in the nucleus of the atom.
Rubber A natural polymer. It is a hydrocarbon. rubber is a good insulator.
Seeding The initial capture of the Orgone force in our cell.
Steel Is an alloy which contains iron as the main constituent.
Sump The lower 1 inch area under the cylinders in a Joe cell.
Suspension When a solid is added to a liquid and the solid neither dissolves in the liquid nor sinks to the bottom, the mixture is referred to as a suspension because the solid is suspended in the liquid.
Vinegar A solution which is made by the action of bacteria on wine or cider. It contains about 4% ethanoic acid. It is used widely in the food industry for preserving foods.
Water Water is an oxide of hydrogen. It is one of the most common compounds on the earth. it does not conduct electricity in its pure state although it can be electrolysed if small amounts of acid or alkali are added. the products are hydrogen and oxygen. The water which we drink is never pure.
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Moore, Bloomfield " What Electricity Is ",1893. From Keelynet Archives.
Schaugerger, Viktor, " Nature's Secrets Unveiled" Implosion.
Schauberger, Viktor, " The Biological Vacuum - The optimal Driving Force For Machines ",Implosion.
Schauberger, Viktor, " The mechanical Generation of Life-Force " Implosion.
Web Sites.
Nutech Homepage. Joe cell books and videos.
Misc. Joe cell articles. ( Do a search on Joe cell).
Public Orgonomic Research Exchange (PORE)
Orgone Biophysical Research Lab.
Another Orgone Research Laboratory (AORL)
Committee for the Scientific Investigation of Claims of the Paranormal (CSICOP
A huge German / English online magazine on the works of W. Reich.
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Part one of the joe cell article "