Update13101999

Well, my dear reader, you are reading this section for any of a number of reasons, some are:

A. You always read a book or notes from cover to cover before you start a construction project. Great, good idea, read on.

B. You are an armchair scientist and you are reading this information to see how it fits in with your own pet opinions on the subject. Good luck and I hope, if you find something to contribute, you will do so freely and in brotherly love.

C. You are reading this chapter because you have made a cell by other methods and are looking for a quick fix. I would strongly recommend that you read and absorb all the previous chapters, as you may have a borderline cell and it may be better to construct a new cell.

D. You are here because you have followed exactly, all my suggestions, and you car will not run on the cell.

In the above, I am only interested in reader D.

Approach to the problem

All problems, irrespective of complexity, can be solved in a methodical, rational fashion. If it looks insurmountable, break it down into convenient smaller sections that you can cope with. Have this smaller section cover one topic only. Make sure that you have a working knowledge of the topic. Take your time , and have somebody else to talk with regarding your chosen solution and approach.

It is important that you change one variable at a time only! If you change variables in a haphazard method or without recording you observations, at the end of the day, you will be worse of than when you started. I would suggest that you break up your problem into the following topics.

Fault finding topics

1. The water.

1a. Cell maintenance.

2. The cell construction.

3. The charging operation.

4. Cell-to-car interface.

5. Car modifications.

6. Geographic location.

7. The Y factor.

1. The water

The single most common problem that you will encounter is the water. As Joe remarked on many occasions, the " water goes bad ". Not a scientific explanation, but well said. So, what are some of the problems with the water?

A. Is the water dead or polluted right from the start? If you collected, transported and stored the water personally, you should know its history. Re-read Chapter 8. If you still doubt your water, try the following. Orgone accumulates in water, and as such, when you transfer the water out of the cell, you take the charge with it. Therefore, if you, or an acquaintance has a good, ie. stage 3 cell, the water can now be substituted into the suspect cell. On now powering up the suspect cell, within 1 minute you cell should be at stage 3. If the suspect cell does not come up to stage 3, the water is not at fault! The above is by far the easiest way to test a suspect cell. Unfortunately, you will need another cell or external help. That is why I suggest that a group can keep a test cell at stage 3 indefinitely for the use of the members. All it requires is that the " cell keeper " gives the cell a daily 1 minute " feed ". You could even have an automatic timer that applies 12 Volts to the cell for 1 minute every 24 hours and just leave it alone in a suitable location. I have kept a test cell at stage 3, on the above principles for over a year, and the idea works fine.

Note. Do not leave the charged water outside its cell for longer than 1 hour as it is not breeding.

I have found that when I use water that I have stored for longer than about 6 months, on using it to fill new cells, I get a very light off-white residue in the sump of the cell. All else works okay, ie., a normally breeding stage 3 cell. My 20 litre Pyrex flasks are stored in the garage and are exposed to cars, noise, fluorescent lights, music, etc. I have now modified the flask caps so that the water can breathe. Also the flasks have been made " light tight ", with a jacket made of purple 100% wool felt. This may help.

I have found that the " old " juvenile water can be reactivated by various forms of water modifiers. I use a special water vortex device and have found that a cell that did not want to go stage 2 for over a week, went stage 3 in 2 days! This is great news for people who have to travel considerable distances to obtain their water. Of course, the bad news is you need a " gismo " like I use, or you may want to try various commercial structured waters to find one that works. I will again say, that it is far easier to let Mother Nature do the work for you, rather than you outlaying hundreds of dollars with no guarantees. I mentioned the above in case you were already using a water " modifier " for health reasons. If so, give it a try, you have nothing to lose.

B. Has the pH of your water changed? Simply run your pH test on the cell water. The reading should be the same. If not either the cylinders or the insulators are breaking down and reacting with the water and electrolyte. Make sure that you followed charging, insulator and cylinder material type recommendations in previous Chapters.

C. Is the water clear? As in B., the cylinders or insulators are breaking down. Or the cell has gone into a base matter creation mode. As this topic is highly controversial and not pertinent to this subject, your only option is to completely dismantle, polish and clean the cell and/or replace the insulators. Fill with fresh juvenile water. Go through charge stages as per Chapter 9.

D. Is there any residue in the sump? As in B. and C. above.

E. Are the stage 3 breeding indicators behaving the same? Read chapter 9 and make sure that the behaviour of the bubbles and meniscus are the same, especially the long term bubble retention. Again, if all else fails try the voltage check.

F. Have you changed locations and the cell is now sitting in a low density Orgone strip? Make sure that the cell is at stage 3. Read Chapter 9.

G. Have you accidentally shorted out the cell or reversed polarity to it? See if it goes back to stage 3 if you apply power to it for 1 minute. If not dismantle, polish and clean all components. Fill with fresh juvenile water. Go through charge stages in Chapter 9.

H. Have you allowed the seed to die? Read Chapter 9. Go through stage 1, stage 2 and stage 3 processes. The cell may go to stage 2 or even stage 3 within 3 minutes.

I. Has the cell fallen over at any stage? Try a 1 minute charge and see if the cell goes to stage 3. If not, dismantle, polish and clean all components. Fill with fresh juvenile water. Go through charge stages in Chapter 9.

1a. Cell maintenance.

I have found after a cell has been in operation for about 6 months, although there is no external indications of malfunction, ie. the cell is happily breeding, it is a good idea to do the equivalent of an oil change and grease. You may find one or more of the following:

* There is a light deposit on the cylinders particularly the outside of the 1 inch and 2 inch.

* The cylinders may have sagged from the vibration, ie. they are not flat on the top horizontal

alignment..

* If rubber insulators are used, you will find that they may have developed a set or a conductive path.

* Some of the insulators, particularly the inner top ones, may have a light white or grey deposit

on them.

* There may be a slight suspension or colloid towards the bottom of the cell.

* There may be slight indications of a brown sediment on top of the water.

* The cell metal parts may have become magnetised.

* The lower insulators for the bolt may have shrunk and could be weeping.

* The electrical connections to the cell may be loose or corroded.

* The compression fitting for the aluminium pipe may be loose.

* The short piece of rubber or neoprene hose to the blanking plug may have aged.

The cures for the above are self explanatory. The only difficult one is if the cell has become magnetised. You may be able to degauss the cell, or at worst, you may have to have the offending cylinder replaced or heat treated. After you demagnetise your cell, find a better location for it, or it will only happen again!

I do a regular 6 month service on my cells. The steps I perform are as follows: I pour out the charged water into a 5 litre glass container and put it in a cool dark area. Obviously the glass cylinder is clean and only used for your Joe cell work! Remember you have approximately 1 hour to replace the charged water back into a seeding and breeding cell. I next dismantle the cell and clean all surfaces with mild acetic acid. I find that it is not necessary to repolish the cylinders, but you may do so if it makes you feel better. I rotate any rubber insulators 180 degrees so as to use a fresh surface with no set. I lubricate my bolt and associated insulators with Vaseline and reassemble the cell. By this time, the charged water has been sitting for about half an hour in the glass cylinder and most of the sediment has settled to the bottom of the temporary glass container. I now pour the charged water back into the cell using a paper coffee filter to catch any sediment. I stop pouring the charged water into the cell when the first drops of water with the sediments starts to leave the glass container. This water I discard or have analysed to amuse myself. I now top up the cell with fresh juvenile water and connect the cell to the power supply. Within seconds you will see a fine white cloud develop on top of the water. This is the residue of the acetic acid that you used to clean the cell with. I remove this simply by wiping the top of the water surface with a paper towel. Within 1 minute your cell will be back at stage 3. That's it, you have just completed you 6 month service.

Note. I will repeat again in case you have forgotten, that all water, containers, funnel, etc. must have only juvenile water used in the cleaning or transferring of water for the cell maintenance. It requires a very small quantity of tap water that has been " enhanced " by good old mankind to kill the cell. Don't blame me if you have to start at stage 1 again by being lazy.

2. The cell construction

Needless to say, you should have followed the cell construction Chapters to the letter. If you did not, you obviously know how to make a different type of cell, and these notes will not be 100% relevant, or you have chosen to be creative, frugal, haphazard, or slap happy at the wrong time. I repeat, you are not making a toaster! You are trying to induce the life force to work for you. You cannot capture the life force as in a cage. It will enter and exit as it sees fit. It can penetrate all materials! So to contain it you must use natures geometry and mathematics, some dimensions are not critical but other dimensions have to be " spot-on ".

If the cell was working at stage 3 and now will not work.

A1. A common problem is that the cell cylinders have moved due to rough handling, vibration, or the wrong diameter insulators. The fix is a dismantle and re-alignment. Make sure that you hands are clean!

A2. Another common problem is the covering of the cylinders and insulators with various residues. This can be seen on the dismantled cell, as an easy removable film on the cylinders and insulators. In this case treat as a dead cell and dismantle, polish and clean all components after finding the cause of the problem. The usual causes are wrong welding material or flux, wrong cylinder material type, wrong insulator material type, or water problems as in section 1. above. Fill with fresh juvenile water and start at stage 1.

A3. The cell material has been magnetised by locating the cell near starter cables or other high current-carrying wiring eg. Hi-Fi wiring, fog lamp or other types of ancillary lights' wiring, winch wiring, etc. In this case, find the magnetised component or components with you test magnet and replace, heat treat or de-magnetise the affected components. A hot under bonnet location will cause similar problems. After fixing the cell, relocate the cell or the offending items.

A4. The insulators or the cylinders are eaten away to some degree. You will pick this up in the discolouration of the water. If you followed my instructions, this will not occur. The problem is incompatible steel or insulators with the water electrolyte combination. In any case, treat the cell as dead, replace faulty components, etc. as in A2

If the cell never worked at stage 3.

B1. The cylinder material type. As mentioned in Chapter 6, the material that you use is critical in you early learning stages. All 316L is not the same! Re-read Chapter 6.

B2. The cell cylinder dimension is wrong. Re-read Chapter 6 and 7. The cylinders must be level at the critical chamber separation area which are formed by the tops of the internal cylindrical tubes. Re-check that the cylinders are level. You should see no light when measuring with a straight edge.

B3. The cylinder finish. As the top and bottom cuts are finished in a lathe, they should be absolutely smooth, ie. no file or cutting marks. Similarly, there should not be any heat bands where the cylinders were cut. The surface of the rest of the cylinder does not have to be mirror smooth, but make sure that there are no longitudinal marks or scratches. If you followed Chapter 6, they will be okay.

B4. Make sure that the welding is done as per Chapter 6. Make sure that all internal irregularities caused by the welding process are removed, without causing excessive localised hot spots.

B5. Make sure that all threaded couplings from the cell to the engine is metal to metal joints and the threads are not covered in sealants or Teflon tape, etc.

B7. Make sure that the cell is airtight. If you apply your power source for a minute or two to the cell and block the outlet of the aluminium pipe with you finger only, you will feel the release of pressure on removal of your finger. Do not do this near flames and/or explosive gasses! This will also check that your cell is not open circuit or shorted and that it is electrolysing.

B8. In B7 above, the most common electrical problems are the push fit of the ½ inch bolt into the 1 inch tube, and the insulators between the 1 inch bolt and the lower cell exit point.

3. The charging operation

The failures can be sub divided into 3 sections:

A. Failure to get to stage 1. If you cannot get the water to electrolyse at all, you have not read Chapter 9. Even blind Freddie and his dog can do this. Hang you head in shame and take up another interest! Seriously, not many things can go wrong. If your power source is putting out about 12 Volts and if you have added the electrolyte as described, then you must have some bubble activity ( even tiny ones that look like a white mist, ) in the water. If there are still no bubbles in the water, connect a 12 Volt car globe of any wattage or type to the very ends of the leads that you are connecting to the cell. The lamp will light if your power source and your leads are okay. Now remove the lamp and put the positive lead to the outside surface of the cell and the negative lead to the ½ inch bolt that connects to the 1 inch cylinder. If you still have no bubbles, the ½ inch bolt connection to the 1 inch tube is faulty, but highly unlikely. Re-check the insulators that insulate the 1/2 inch bolt from the outer container. As there is now water in the cell you will not be able to do your insulation test but you should still read more than 10 Ohms resistance from the bolt to the case. Be careful of misleading readings if the cell is acting as a battery, as you Ohm measurement will be useless.

B. Failure to get to stage 2. By this I mean that the cell has not seeded and remains at the electrolysis stage. This is a very common stumbling block! As explained, if the cell will not seed, the indication is there is no change in bubble size or surface tension. Boy, oh boy, I have been here many a time myself and I suggest the following:

B1. The first and most common is the covering of the cylinders with a coating of various chemicals. In my early days, when I took the lazy way out and brazed or silver soldered my casing joints, this compound ended up all over the rest of the cell due to electrolysis. As the positive is the donor surface and in our case the outer casing including welds, sealants, etc., this fact aggravated the plating process.

B2. Another failure and resulting contamination, was the use of the wrong type of sealant on the central insulator for the sealing of the ½ inch bolt where it passes out through the bottom of the cell.

B3. Likewise, when I decided to press fit my outer cell components, I used an automotive silicon gasket cement on the joints. This also ended up plating the whole cell.

B4. If the water smells unhealthy or there is scum floating around, the water has gone bad. Replace with fresh juvenile water and go back to stage 1.

B5. Check that your insulators have retained the original manufactured colours. That is, if red rubber, make sure they are still red, if silicone tubing, make sure it is still clear, etc. The insulators may be fine for stage 1 electrolysis, but may be very leaky to Orgone.

B6. You working area or you may be detrimental to the seeding of the cell. See 6. and 7.

B7. You are not covering the cell overnight and/or between experiments. As previously explained, we want to keep a very mild air seal on the cell. This is easily done by placing a lid on the test cell or by having a spare aluminium plug in the end of the hose where it fits onto the engine blanking plug fitting. Again, I must repeat, DO NOT use worm drive clips on both ends of the rubber coupling sleeve. The rubber sleeve must act as a one way exit valve for any pressure in the cell. The internal cell pressure must remain very close to atmospheric during operation.

B8. You are just too impatient! It may take 4 weeks to seed the cell! Just spend a few minute a day with it and go and do something else.

B9. You have used the wrong materials. This has already been covered. Please read 2.

B10. You have used the wrong water. Ditto. Please read 1.

B11. You are using the wrong charging method. Ditto. Please read 3.

B12. You are the wrong potential. See " Y factor " Sect. 7 and chapter 13.

Note. For all problems in this section due to contamination of the cell by deposits, water or materials, dismantle the cell, polish, clean and refill with juvenile water.

C. Failure to get to stage 3. This is the failure of the cell to breed. Again, to repeat, this is the failure of the cell to keep increasing the initial seed density to a greater, but still finite, Orgone energy limit. Indicators will be a lack of long term bubble and surface tension retention and an obvious non-operation or marginal operation. Usually you will get to stage 3 very soon, ie. within days of stage 2. Another way of describing the failure of running at stage 3, is that the cell is leaky to such an extent that the Orgone force cannot accumulate sufficient density in its present location for your needs.

C1. The most common fault of the cell's in not breeding, or insufficient breeding, is caused by marginal water, construction dimensions and materials. Please make sure that you have followed these notes to the letter. If you have modified or substituted components, etc., you obviously know something that I do not know and if your cell had worked, I would love to hear from you, but as you are reading this and if your cell is not working, I suggest you follow my instructions to the letter, or try somebody else's, " how to build a Joe cell " manual.

C2. You, or your working area, may be detrimental to the cell's operation. Read 6. and 7.

4. Cell to car interface.

If you are looking for faults in this area, you know that you cell is at stage 3, but the engine refuses to run from the cell.

A1. Outlet pipe from cell.

A lot of different diameters and materials will work. I would suggest, like Joe that you use 1 inch outer diameter, 1/8 " tube thickness aluminium pipe. Due to electrolytic action, copper will either pollute the cell, or pollute itself. The short piece of rubber or neoprene must not have any clips on the end that attaches over the blind aluminium plug. The idea is to let any pressure " burp " out, but not to let any air in. The fitting should act as a one way valve to pressure from the cell caused by the electrolytic action. The engine end of the aluminium pipe should have you positive electrical connection secured to the pipe by means of the same short piece of hose being slipped over it. This end should have a clip to squeeze the hose and the electrical fitting to the pipe. What you are doing is providing your positive connection at the very end of the outlet pipe. You negative as previously described, will go to the cars body, ( we are presuming a modern car that has a negative earth system ). The pipe fitting to the top of the cell must be air tight without the use of sealants or Teflon tape, etc. The compression or threaded fitting will do a good job of this. Try to twist the aluminium pipe out of the compression fitting. If tight, you will not be able to budge it. Your pipe should also have some form of insulation around it to prevent contacts to the rest of the metallic parts of the car. Ideally, the cell should be similarly protected. Remember, just one short circuit and the cell is dead!

A2. Electrical connections. The positive wire coming from the end of the aluminium pipe should go via a 5 Amp fuse to your " ignition on " wiring. By this, I mean that the cell should only have the car power connected to it when the ignition is on. Some people prefer to run this wire via an off/on switch that is located in the car. When you connect your negative to the car, it is preferable to connect it directly to the block if you earth straps from the motor or gearbox are suspect. Either way, with the ignition on, you should measure 12 Volts positive on the cell body and 12 Volts negative on the central bolt fitting. If not, check you wiring, fuse, any switches, etc. The most probable cause of no voltage is a blown fuse because you have shorted the cell. Find you short, replace the fuse and make sure that the cell goes to stage 3. If not, pull the cell out, clean, polish, new water, etc. ie. start again. The other most common problems are the use of sealants on the compression fitting. This is easy to find and fix. If you have 12 Volts across the cell, that does not mean necessarily that you have your 1 Amp current flow. To check this, temporally disconnect the negative end of your cell from the car body or motor and put you Amp meter in series with the central bolt and the car connection. You should read your 1 Amp current flow. If not you have some high resistance connections or wiring, or the cell is faulty. As you are reading this because you know you cell is not faulty, the problem is either you aluminium pipe connection or you wiring. Locate the problem step by step, making sure that you do not short out or apply reverse polarity to the cell. As mentioned in Chapter 10, the 1 Amp is a nominal figure. At 1 Amp the cell is dissipating about 13 Watts and the cell may eventually heat up on an extended journey and a hot day. Check Chapter 10 for recommendations.

A3. Cell design. If you have made a cell with the wrong taper to you cone, the Orgone will focus before it gets to the motor and the cell will work brilliantly on the bench, but it will not run the car. The only reason this has occurred is that you did not build a cell as described in these notes. To quickly summarise cone angles, any apex cone angle of less than 45 degrees is highly suspect.

A4. Cell location. Check as previously explained, that the cell is located in a favourable location in the car. Is it in a cool place? Is it level? Is it located as far as possible from high current wiring? Is it located in a low vibration area? Not like some rocket scientist who strapped it to his engine!!! As Orgone has a vertical preference once it leaves the cell, reduce horizontal and " down hill " pipe runs to a minimum. A cell located in the boot, with a 4 meter run to the engine is not a great idea. Again, a non-leaky cell can run 60 meters or more into a horizontal tube, but why tempt fate? As far as the cell ( but not the passenger ) is concerned, for you first cell's temporary location, the passenger foot well, with a pipe through the bulk head and a short, ( less than a meter ) pipe to the blind plug located at the rear of the engine ( non V8 ) works well. Please note ! A cell in the passenger foot area will be illegal in some areas!, so you are obviously using this car on private land until you have it legally approved.

Note. At this point of the trouble shooting list, you know that you cell is at stage 3 and that it is connected correctly to the car. So if things are still not working, leave this area alone! Do not undo what you know is working, ie. don't dismantle your cell or associated connections to the car, they are okay! Leave them alone and look for problems in the only remaining areas you have not covered, ie. Section 5, 6, and 7. Unless you keep a systematic approach to the installation and troubleshooting procedures, you will never get the cell to run the car.

5. Car modifications.

For a start, I will again state the obvious, some cars will be easier to modify than others, or more importantly, not all persons will be able to modify all cars! So unless you are masochistic and want to make your friend's life a misery, choose an easy car! This, of course, may not be old faithful that is sitting in your garage. You should also have followed Chapter 10. before you read this.

You are reading this because you KNOW that your cell is still breeding, ie. running at stage 3, your car connections are okay and you electrical connections are okay. You have started your car on petrol and after it has warmed up, you either have turned off the electrical fuel pump, or you have turned off the fuel to, or from, the mechanical pump. Now as the fuel is used up in the fuel bowl, or bowls, the engine falters and stops, ( at this stage, I am not talking about fuel injected motors ). That is how I would expect you to test the change over phase. You are really pushing your luck, if you walk up to a stone cold car, remove the fuel to the engine and start cranking! I hope you have plenty of fully charged batteries!

The car will either run, run erratically or not at all.

A1. Car shows no sign of running from the cell. By this I mean that as soon as the motor runs out of fuel, the car stops. A lot of people get here, but blame the wrong components. As stated above, you are here because you know all sections up to here are working okay. This only leaves this Section 6 and 7. So let's presume that the car is at fault as that is the present topic. I can tell you for a fact, that a 1971 V8 Rover will start first shot and run like a dream. On the other hand, a 1100cc Mini Minor will not even think of staring first time. Why? There are a lot of pet theories floating around, but as these are my notes I will give you my theory based, on logic.

Note. The following is a theory and eventually may be proven wrong. but the way I see it is that the water and the cylinder bores in the motor act as a single layer Orgone accumulator, ie. an organic material ( water ) surrounding a non-organic cylinder ( the bore ). As such, an engine with a bore that is fully surrounded with water will be far superior than an engine that uses siamesed bores or casting methods, without the benefit of the totally water-surrounding cylinder. Now as most aluminium blocks have metal sleeve cylinders pressed into the aluminium block for bores, this feature allows for a full water circulation and completes our single layer Orgone accumulator. It also makes it less leaky and more conducive to conversion to a Joe cell system. Remember, Orgone loves water. This is also ( in my opinion ), the reason why a person that chooses an air cooled motor will have more problems than one that uses a water cooled motor.

The above gives me a reason why some motors start first shot and others may take weeks to kick in. Two other effects hinder or help the above. The first is, that Orgone seems to " like " to travel in aluminium or it finds aluminium more difficult to penetrate, so it would have a tendency, on leaving our aluminium pipe to either prefer the aluminium block, or once it was inside the block, it may have a greater difficulty in " leaking " out. I would be the first to admit that I do not understand this effect, but it is definitely there. As more information comes to hand, I will update these notes. The second is the easier conversion of V8 motors. As our blanking entry plug is located in the vee formed by the two banks of 4 cylinders, the Orgone distribution from the cell is ideal, ie. it is a central entry, nearly equidistant and close to all cylinders. Another important feature is that the entry point it is on the cold side of the motor, ie. the exhaust system is on the " other side " of the cylinders. This also give a cross-flow motor an advantage.

So what is to be made from the above? I would suggest, like Joe, to start on an easy conversion until you build up your own confidence and hence the " Y factor ". Either go and see a converted car so you can believe, or convert an old Rover or Leyland V8 as a group effort. I cannot see why the different clubs and interest groups cannot pool together and purchase an old wreck.

If you insist in converting your cast iron, or air cooled whatever, be prepared to wait for the molecular changes that seems to occur to cast iron, siamesed bore and manifold type motors. As Joe stated, this may take 3 or 4 weeks. I have personally installed cells that are stage 3 and left them " running " on the car. The car was driven normally on petrol or gas, until the idle or engine operation noticeably changed. This was the indicator that the " molecular " changes have occurred and the car was ready. What you also may want to try is to replace the normal radiator water with SPECIAL, charged stage 3 water ( see Chapter 9 regarding the special stage 3 water ). This should speed up the acclimatisation process. As most modern motors run some form of inhibitors and anti freeze additives in the water, you will have to consider the consequences of playing around with this mixture. The down side of dumping the additives may be increased corrosion on alloy components, ie. head, manifold, water pump, etc. Due to the tendency of the motor to run much cooler on the Joe cell, I would recommend that you leave the Glycol in the water. Obviously, you throw all new car warranties out the window the moment that you add the Joe cell and its related conversions to you car.

A2. Fuel injection cars. The simplest way to treat these cars is to perform a full conversion to gas. In this way you have a duel fuel system, ie. Joe cell or gas. Plus you pick up the advantages of a longer life span for your engine as per Chapter 10.

Section summary. So really, all that I can suggest in this section, is that if the car will not start at ALL and all other sections have been covered, you should give the conversion a maximum of 4 weeks for the cell to take over. If the cell does not kick in that period, the chances are indeed slim that it will ever work. You have only a few chances left. A few people have surfaced in Australia that can tune your car and cell by the application of correctly located specifically made crystal packs. This has emerged as a new and not well understood science, but it just about guarantees that the cell will run in some form or other on the car.

A recent discovery by an avid alternative energy experimenter from Adelaide, ( Aust. ) was that the car only ran on his cell after the car was up to a road speed of 80 kph. Obviously if he only tried to run the car on the cell in a start-up, stationary situation, he would not have discovered that the cell was partially working. So, as he is a great lateral thinker, he took the car for a drive on petrol and then turned off the electrical fuel pump when the car was up to speed. As the car would not idle on the cell, he simply turned on the fuel pump before the engine returned to idle speed. I would guess and say that his cell was very leaky or the Orgone transfer to the engine was poor and thus marginal for engine requirements, and that the forward motion of the car caused a charging effect from the Orgone that the car was travelling through.

With the above example, I am saying that you should not give up too easily and that with a bit of experimentation and patience, your car will also run on Orgone.

All cars, including fork lifts, dragsters and diesel motors that Joe converted eventually ran! If your car will not run, consult your favourite " expert ", or drop me or the publisher a line, only as a last resort when you have exhausted all other avenues. Please be reasonable, realise that I am only one person, I have a life and family, I do not get paid for my time by you or the hundreds of others requiring help. Irrespective, I will do my best to help.

A3. Car runs erratically, or does not reach maximum power, or starts and then stops.

This could be caused by many things and you will have to logically fault trace, by elimination of one suspect cause at a time. Some causes ( not in any specific order );

* The cell is marginal. Check that it is still at stage 3.

* The cell contains too much water. Rectify.

* The air flow into the motor is " wrong " at that particular engine operating range. We are working on this problem, but as a temporary cure, some cell operators have modified the fuel system to supply a slight petrol flow into the engine at the troublesome operating range.

* The cell is marginal due to bad design. Read Chapter 6.

* The cell is too small. Read Chapter 6.

* The cell to motor tube is the wrong shape, material, or diameter. Read Chapter 10.

* The blind plug is location is not optimised on the motor. Read Chapter 10.

* The cell has become magnetised. See previous section.

* The day is hot, or the cell is too hot. Feel the cell!

* The cell is too hot from excessive electrolysis current. Wait for the cell to cool down and

then readjust current.

* The cell is mounted in a bad location in the car. Read Chapter 10.

* The day is wet or humid. See section 6.

* You, your passengers, or animals, or location, are interacting with a marginal cell. See section

7.

* Your ignition timing is not optimised. Adjust!

* Your water has gone " off ", or you water level has gone down. Rectify!

* Your cell cylinders are polluted. Dismantle and clean.

* You are in a high DOR area with a marginal cell. Hopefully you can drive out of to before the cell dies.

* You are in a strip of low or reversed Orgone. As above.

* Sun or planetary activity is detrimental to cell output. Change over to " normal " fuel and wait for more favourable times.

* Your electrolysis rate is down or not sufficient to run the motor.

* Your wiring or the cell have gone high resistance. Check with an Amp meter to make sure that you chosen " running current " is still okay.

* The air flow into the motor is wrong at that particular engine operating range. We are working on this problem, but as a temporary cure, some cell operators have modified the fuel system to supply a slight petrol flow into the engine at the troublesome operating range.

A4. The car runs. Great! Good for you, but please remember that it will not run all the time and will stop unexpectantly and with no warning signs, so always have a duel fuel system set up and ready to " kick in ". It would be highly embarrassing to be thousands of kilometres from home and having to ask the local mechanic to fix your Joe cell conversion! You should see an interesting look on his face.

The performance of your car will be determined by the reserve of Orgone density you have on demand. A leaky or under-capacity cell will not give you maximum power. A good cell will give you at least the same and usually a greater power range with a sweeter running and more tractable motor.

A5. To return the car back to normal fuel.

If for some reason you have now decided that you want to convert the car back to normal for reasons best known to yourself, you should perform the following steps:

* Remove the cell, wiring, brackets, etc.

* Seal, in a professional manner ALL holes that you have made in the floor or bulkhead. If the holes are left, moisture may enter the vehicle and thus cause rust. More importantly, some holes may allow the entry of gasses that may kill you or some other occupier!!!

* Return ignition timing to normal manufacturers recommendation.

* Replace all special oil and water that was used to run the car on the cell.

* Remove any vortex air cleaners or mufflers unless you still want these for fuel saving reasons.

Now the fun will start. As there may be a residual of Orgone charge in the motor/car bodywork, the motor may refuse to run at the normal ignition timing. It may return to normal running after weeks, but during the intervening time the engine will run rough, refuse to idle at the normal idle speed and be a real pain to drive. A suggested solution is to use a thick lead, ( a jump-start lead is perfect ) and connect one end to the positive end of the battery and flash the other end very briefly against the engine at or near where you placed the blanking plug for the transfer tube from the cell. This will cause a momentary massive current to flow through the motor and back to earth ( metal parts of car ) and finally back to the negative end of the battery and thus reverse ( hopefully ) the charge from the Orgone and thus clear the motor. Make sure that you first disconnect any cables that are on the positive terminal of the battery before attempting the above!

NOTE! The above operation is a last ditch effort by competent mechanics. This is due to the very expensive and lethal damage that can occur to you and the car ie:

* You may destroy your car computer/s, alternator, regulator and/or diodes, car radio, gauge's, and any other electronic device on the car.

* As you are creating massive currents, you have a fair chance of melting any thin cables connected between the motor and earth.

* Also as you are creating sparks near the car battery, ( if it is located under the bonnet ) you have a fair chance of igniting the hydrogen gas in the battery thus causing a large explosion with a liberal spray of sulphuric acid. This may MAIM OR EVEN KILL YOU or the onlookers and of course destroy the front end of the car.

Again, I do not recommend the above unless you know exactly what you are doing. I merely mention this method for completeness as it is employed by some individuals.

6. Geographic location.

As mentioned, Orgone is not a constant, or even density cover on this planet. Some of the resulting problems are:

* The density varies seasonally.

* The density varies with the time of day.

* The density varies with planetary motions.

* The density varies with the Sun's cycle.

* The density varies with altitude.

* The density varies with geographic location.

* The density varies with the " users " of the Orgone energy eg. a nearby car.

* The density varies with the weather.

* The density varies with the introduction of pollutants.

* the density varies with the Earths and cosmic magnetism.

As you can see from the above, it is a wonder that we can use it at all, with our crude knowledge and even cruder cell. The main solution is to have a cell that is not too leaky. This means that the cell is always over-producing thus giving you some valuable time to drive out of the unfavourable locality. This is why I have suggested that you should have a duel fuel system and at no stage rely on the cell alone. It is one thing to have it fail on your garage bench, and a completely different thing to have it fail in the outback. Orgone has a very big disliking for any form of man-made electromagnetic radiation. So any large high voltage power line, transmitters, airport radar, military installations or radioactive sources will set up a reaction with the Orgone to create DOR. This may be so severe, that as Joe says, " the water has gone bad ". Unfortunately, as you are probably already anticipating what I am going to write, this requires a clean of the cylinders and insulators , fresh water, etc. That's right, back to stage 1.

7. The Y factor.

For the rational, proof only, and died-in-the-wool scientific types, you are going to hate this one! Normally anything that cannot be explained in the framework of existing theories that are known as " facts ", are place under the category of, " experimentally observed phenomena ". The following fits that category. Basically, as Reich discovered, the Y factor simply stands for you. Yes, unfortunately when you get to the grey areas where known science merges into the unknown, you enter areas that will stretch your belief system if you so allow it. I could have very easily left the so-called non-scientific mumbo jumbo out of this book and so given myself at least a little " scientific credibility ", whatever that means. Luckily, as I am self-funded and do not live on grants by writing " selected " papers, no multi national can conveniently shut me up or rephrase the above to suit their needs. In actuality, it is immaterial if you believe or do not believe in the Y factor, either way it exists and you really should consider the concept of all creation being intimately linked permanently and instantly.

The Y factor will make your Joe cell either not seed at all, or not breed, or breed poorly, or behave in an intermittent fashion, depending on the living energies around it at any one time. This is not a fable coming out of my demented brain, but an observed fact, recorded from all over the world for countless centuries.

I, with many others have had individuals walk up to our cells and watch our cell suddenly breed, ( Stage 3 ) or worst, watch with dismay as our cell drops back to Stage 1 ( die ). My favourite test cell was a Stage 3 cell for over 10 months and I was stupid enough to let it be observed by all and sundry. One day it was observed by an individual who by his own admission was out of energy and run down . Within seconds of this guy looking at my cell, it dropped out of Stage 3 to a weak Stage 2. Next morning it was absolutely dead. I pulled it apart and cleaned all metal parts hoping that this would fix it as the charge is in the water. No Joy! I then completely rebuilt the cell, added fresh water and I am still waiting for it to go to Stage 2! As in Chapter 8, you have been warned, keep your living cell to yourself. A friend reported to me a similar experience, namely that a cell that would not go to Stage 2 sprang to life ( Stage 3 ) when a friend of his was 20 meters away from the cell, and then the cell went into a frenzy as he approached it. When his friend left, the cell died again! True stories.

The best procedure with the cell, or for that matter any endeavour is to treat it with an open mind. You do not have to believe that it will work, but similarly, you should not doubt that it can work. Do not analyse too much or apply blinkers to your thinking process by presuming that you have learned all that there is to know and with your " vast knowledge " can categorically say that, this Joe cell concept could never work. Unless you are the Almighty himself, you will learn new things every day for the rest of your life. I have talked to many, many intelligent individuals that simply refuse to believe that a car can run on what they see as nothing, nor how this nothing can get into a " solid metal " engine through no openings operate the motor and produce no measurable pollution. Yet, these same individuals who consider themselves sane ( with reservations for my sanity ), are quite happy to spend large sums of money or follow some outlandish new age fad in medicines or self-healing techniques with even less proof or science!

CLOSING COMMENT.

My dear patient reader. At no stage have I said that the Joe cell is similar to making a bread toaster. As you are dealing with a little known, mass-less life force, you are behind the 8 ball right from the start, your battle is uphill and lonely, with jeering and laughing " experts " on both sides waiting for you to fall. Similarly, at no stage have I said that all people can convert all cars. Likewise, once you have converted your chosen car, there is no guarantee as to how long it will run before the breeding stops and/or the seed dies.

With the right mindset, all the above are minor problems and enjoyable challenges, but if you approach this conversion in a rush, not really believing in your heart that it can work, or with the intention of making lots of quick money, the Y factor is going to bite you! Don't even start, you are wasting your time and money. Think about it! If it was so easy and if all and sundry could exploit the life force, why is it not in mass production out in the real world? The answer is simple. It is exactly the mind set of these type of individuals that prevents them from utilising Mother Nature's secrets.

May aim has been to show you a method of cell construction that works for me. Obviously, there are many different ways to encourage the life force to enter an accumulator, storing it, increasing the stored density and finally utilising the force as you make it work on its release, similar to a dam wall and a water turbine. I have read all materials available to me relating to the life force and its utilisation. Over 6 years, I have compiled, analysed and experimented with the combinations that showed the greatest potential. I am not infallible, nor do I claim I make the best cells. I only claim that I make cells that work! You are reading some of this work. As I give you this information freely, I hope that you will also distribute it freely. What you do with this knowledge is your decision. Hopefully, as a result of your efforts you will share any new knowledge or short cuts with the rest of us, so we can all grow together as a brotherhood.

The contents of Joe cell chapters
Danger
Credits
What is the Joe cell
Some Properties of orgone
Some names for the life force
Orgone Polarity
Theory of Cell Design
materials and design
Sizes and diameters
Water types and relations to cells
Charging the water cell
Connectioning to motors
When Things go wrong
Miscellaneous Thoughts
Some Readers contributions
Disclaimer
Glossary
Brotherhood of Man
A Joe cell parts supplier
index page where the contents of these chapters came fom